Ever inspired by nature, Japan’s Grand Seiko has recently dropped a duet of Spring Drive timepieces inspired by the fall.
It must be hard, being a Grand Seiko dial designer. You think you’ve just finished work, but then you go outside the HQ. Enamoured by the majesty of the Shinshu region, you’re then forced to go back inside to a design a dial inspired by what you just saw.
While it definitely is a vicious cycle, it certainly gets results. Grand Seiko (plus Seiko and Credor, by extension) are notorious for their dial designs and are responsible for arguably the best dial finishing in the entire watch industry. Look no further than the SBGA413 ‘Shunbun’ or the SLGH005 ‘White Birch’ for instances where the dial is the prominent star of the show. This year, it seems that Grand Seiko has outdone themselves on the eve of the Spring Drive’s 20th Anniversary, as they have recently released two new references paying respects to the dynamic and warm colours of Autumn.
The first of the two is the SBGY035: A manual wind Spring Drive piece based on the framework of the similarly sized ‘Omiwatari’ collection; the watch is an elegant 38.5mm – a perfect size for anybody. With a fumé dial that darkens at the edges, this piece mimics the appearance of the morning sun rising over the Hotaka Mountain Range, reflecting the autumn leaves that decorate the countryside.
Powering the watch is the Calibre 9R31, boasting a 72-hour power reserve and a scarcely believable accuracy threshold of +/- 15 seconds per month. Coming on a colour-matched alligator strap, this watch will undoubtedly become a staple of many enthusiasts’ dress watch collections. That is if you’re one of the lucky 700 to get your hands on it.
If it’s a sportier flair you prefer, however, you’re in luck – The SBGA499 is more than happy to accommodate for a versatile wearing experience. Encased in 40.2mm of stainless steel, this watch uses the Calibre 9R65; A movement with the same Spring Drive fixings as the rest of the 9R series, accompanied by an automatic rotor and a frontwards-facing power reserve indicator.
A decidedly simpler dial that is no less striking, the SBGA499 also mimics the autumn leaves of the Hotaka Mountain Range, with the pink copper and rose gold of the power reserve indicator and GS logo providing a healthy dose of contrast. Limited to 1300 references, this watch is both deadly accurate and robustly built, allowing it to take on all kinds of situations thrown at it.
Final Thoughts
The Cal. 9R series is, in my opinion, one of the most exciting and innovative innovations in recent watchmaking history. Synthesising the beauty and versatility of mechanical watchmaking with the ruthless accuracy of quartz is no small feat – one to be investigated in greater detail another time, perhaps – but Grand Seiko remains as the only watch brand to successfully and elegantly do so. On top of this, their design game remains immaculate, reflected in these two references that genuinely echo the beauty of likely the most visually stunning season of the year.
I’m not the biggest fan of the frontwards power reserve indicator, so my favourite of the two is undoubtedly the SBGY035, but it doesn’t mean there’s particularly a wrong answer here. Both pieces are incredibly breathtaking, and I thoroughly look forward to seeing them in the metal, should I get the opportunity!
Reference:
- SBGY035 (Manual Wind)
- SBGA499 (Automatic)
Specifications
- Case Size: 38.5mm case diameter (SBGY035), 40.2mm case diameter (SBGA499)
- Case Lug-To-Lug: 43.7mm lug-to-lug (SBGY035), 49mm lug-to-lug (SBGA499)
- Case Thickness: 10.2mm thickness (SBGY035), 12.8mm thickness (SBGA499)
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: Red fumé (SBGY035), Red with pink copper and rose gold accents (SBGA499)
- Movement: Manual wind Cal. 9R31 (SBGY035), Automatic Cal. 9R65 (SBGA499)
- Power Reserve: 72h
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar) (SBGY035), 100m (10bar) (SBGA499)
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.
- Strap/Bracelet: Alligator leather with stainless steel pin buckle (SBGY035), Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp (SBGA499)
