The Riviera 10770: Baume & Mercier’s Perfect Balance of Form and Function is now met with a brilliant emerald-green dial!
What We Love:
- Exceptional dial design
- The movement offers a 5-day power reserve
- A smaller and slimmer case makes it more versatile.
What We Don’t:
- The bracelet design is too plain for Riviera’s case finishing and dial design
- Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet.
- Lack of colour options for secondary strap options (to colour match with the dial)
Overall Rating: 8.95/10
- Value for Money: 9.3/10
- Wearability: 8.75/10
- Design: 9/10
- Build Quality: 8.75/10
Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier, as a watchmaker, has long been known to have a deep-rooted passion for horology, reflected through their timepeices that show elegance and precision. Brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume founded Baume & Mercier, and the brand quickly found itself on the international stage with a reputation for creating watches of exceptional quality, earning them numerous awards for precision at international exhibitions.
In 1918, Baume & Mercier further solidified its “luxury image” by bringing in Paul Mercier as a partner. Paul Mercier brought a modern vision to the brand, leaning more towards aesthetic innovation while still upholding the brand’s technical excellence. This philosophy of Paul Mercier laid the groundwork for future Baume & Mercier collections!
All-new Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770
So, how does this all relate to the Riviera collection? When it was first released in 1973, it marked a turning point for Baume & Mercier. The Baume & Mercier Riviera was born at a time when bold design and adventurous watchmaking were the go-to foundation for many watch brands, and it’s all due to the Quartz Crisis. The Quartz Crisis took place between 1970 and 1988, and it is stated that Swiss watch employment fell from approximately 99,000 to 28,000 employees! This was a radical shift in the mechanical watchmaking market.
With the end of mechanical watches in Switzerland looming, many local watch brands had to take drastic measures not only to stay alive but also to delay the advancement of quartz watches in a heavily driven mechanical watchmaking environment. Sometimes, in moments of crisis or heavy pressure, we think outside the box for solutions and create and invent some of the most amazing things. This can be seen through some of the most iconic timepieces in the watch market today being released during the period of the Quartz Crisis, such as Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, IWC Schaffhausen’s Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, Patek Philippe Nautilus and Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon just to name a few.
Another timepiece that can be added to this iconic design of the Quartz Crisis is Baume & Mercier’s Riviera. Much like Audemars Ppiguet’s Royal Oak, the Baume & Mercier Riviera made waves throughout the watchmaking world with its distinctive 12-sided bezel and integrated case design. This symbolised the stylish yet daring approach prevalent in the 1970s. The design of the first Riviera is tied to its history and the founders of Baume & Mercier. With his vision of creating aesthetic timepieces, Paul Mercier certainly had a part to play in making this aesthetically beautiful watch. In contrast, the quality and precision of the watch relayed back to brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume.
It should be noted, however, that this radical approach to the Riviera’s design was to keep Baume & Mercier sharp and relevant during the Quartz Crisis, as the first few models released in 1973 of the Riveria were mostly, if not all, quartz timepieces. It wasn’t until 1975 that Baume & Mercier expanded with large, medium, and small models in steel, steel/gold, and solid gold, featuring quartz movements and now, for the first time, automatic mechanical movements!
When we fast forward to our modern version of the Baume & Mercier Riviera, we can see that the timepiece has undergone several evolutions while maintaining the core elements of its DNA that made it iconic at the time of its release. While design elements such as the traditional round dial and dodecahedral steel case and bezel, the steel integrated three-link bracelet are all retained in the modern RIviera, Baume & Mercier has certainly incorporated contemporary enhancements and design language to make the Riviera collection a versatile option for the modern watch enthusiast.
Initial Impressions Of The Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770:
I must say, straight off the bat, that this has to be one of the favourite Riviera releases to date. I’ve had quite a hands-on experience with modern Riviera timepieces, and unsurprisingly, this stood out to me almost immediately. The main standout detail that sets this apart from the rest of the models in the current Riviera collection is the beautifully executed transparent smokey green sapphire dial. Add to this the golden borders of the gilded finished hour indices and hands, and you have a dial that, for me, is beautiful to admire and look at, with a stark aesthetic contrast achieved between dial colour and its elements.
The 39mm case is also perfectly sized to my wrist, with its overall design maintaining the classic Riviera design. Another essential feature of this latest Riviera 10770 is that it now solely uses an in-house automatic movement. But more on this later!
The Signature Riviera Case Design:
As mentioned previously, the Riviera 10770 is offered in a 39mm stainless steel case, which I personally think is done to just the right size. The Riviera is also offered in 42mm variants, which I find to be a little too big on the wrist. The 4-screws and the stunning satin-brushed finish accentuate the Riviera’s signature 12-sided bezel design.
When we look at the very first Riviera from 1973, we can immediately see the design changes that Baume & Mercier made for these modern models, and they make the watch more seamless. The original Riviera’s integrated lug design was relatively straightforward. However, aesthetic-wise, it just seemed to “stick out” of the case. The design seemed a bit off balance, as the 12-sided bezel doesn’t transition into the bracelet in a smooth manner, which makes this bezel design appear oversized.
This has been fixed with the modern Riviera case design, which is why we see the case lugs angle outwards to transition more smoothly into the face of the 12-sided bezel. We can see from the above image that the case mimics the surfaces of the 12-sided bezel, which I think is beautifully executed to not only give it a more aesthetic appearance but also a balanced design where the case and bezel don’t look out of proportion.
The case and bezel also have exceptional finishing, considering the timepiece’s price ($6,000 AUD). First, as I mentioned earlier, the bezel has a satin-brushed finish that flows outwards from the dial. Baume & Mercier then polished the sides of the bezel, followed by the case’s surfaces, which were also satin-brushed. This mix of satin-brushed, polished and satin-brushed surfaces is what makes the watch glisten beautifully under different lighting angles. The timepiece features the Riviera’s signature crown design, which has the engraved logo on the crown’s front side, and the dial colour-matched strip on the side.
The case measures only 10,21mm thick. This is a great size for anyone who wants to daily wear this piece, as it will sit nicely underneath the cuff of business attire, while also not being imposing on the wrist. Baume & Mercier is certainly following market sentiment by offering a slimmer and smaller version of the Riviera! The side profile of the timepiece shows it’s sandwich-style construction, with the bezel and caseback sitting perfectly aligned with each other.
Emerald-Green Smoked Sapphire Dial Design:
While the case and bezel are nothing new for this latest Riviera, the dial gets a new look thanks to the new emerald green-coloured smoked sapphire dial. This honestly, sets this Riviera apart from the rest of the models in the collection. I mentioned briefly earlier how well the dial is executed, but that was only scratching the surface (quite literally).
We’ve seen plenty of modern Riviera models before where the transparent dial gives way to the sea-wave motif (a design reference to the waters of the French Riviera), however, while this Riviera 10770 model does the same, there is something different about the dial. This pattern is executed in a way that shows the wave motif in the most subtle manner as if it gets any clearer, then not only does the dial get too messy aesthetically, but readability also becomes an issue.
I personally think that the emerald green colour does a lot of justice to the smoked sapphire on the dial. What stands out for me about this colour is that compared to the darker colours, the dial doesn’t give the beautiful appearance of the flat green colour you see when looking at it from a side angle. The above image perfectly describes what I mean, with the dial having almost a mirror-like finish that showcases the emerald green’s beauty to the fullest extent.
The hour indices, which combine baton style and Roman numerals for 6 and 12 o’clock, have a three-dimensional appearance as they look neatly laid on top of the smoked sapphire crystal. At different lighting angles, the hour indices cast small shadows, which further emphasizes this design element. I also love that Baume & Mercier has given a polished finish to the sides of the case where it connects with the dial, which acts to mirror the hour indices! The hands are made up of faceted hour and minute hands with a dauphine design, while the minute hand has a javelin-like shape. These dial elements have Super-LumiNova applied to them, giving a stunning aqua-blue glow in low-light conditions. I do like that they stayed away from using green for the lume colour, as that would’ve blended in too much with the dial underneath.
I wouldn’t be doing the dial design of this Riviera justice if I didn’t mention the date window or, more specifically, the date wheel. A characteristic design trait of modern Riviera timepieces is that the movement can also be seen alongside the sea-wave motif behind the transparent smoked sapphire dial. While you can make out some of the gears underneath the sea-wave motif, what is evidently clear is the date wheel that sits just underneath the hour track.
Baume & Mercier has also executed the date window well. If you’ve read my past reviews, one gripe I have with modern watch designs is how they manage the date wheel and how well it flows with the overall “balanced” look of the dial. In this case, removing the 3 o’clock hour indices and replacing the date window in its place helps to keep a balanced and somewhat symmetrical view on the dial. Looking front on, we can clearly see the date wheel of the movement through the emerald-green smoked sapphire. This, however, speaks volumes about Riveira’s design, as when looking at the dial from an angle, this date wheel almost disappears to give way to the emerald-green colour.
Three-Link Steel Bracelet Design:
The Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 comes standard with a three-link bracelet. As mentioned in the watch’s case design, the bracelet’s design has been improved over the years to integrate with the case in a much more aesthetically pleasing and balanced way.
The bracelet doesn’t have micro-adjustment; however, it has mini-links that can be removed to give a better and snugger fit on the wrist. With micro-adjustment on the bracelet, the watch’s price would undoubtedly go up. The ends of the bracelet also come engraved with the “phi” emblem, which makes the logo when the bracelet is closed. The quick-change system of the bracelet is certainly hand, as depending on the event, the weather or even the mood of the wearer, the strap can be changed out to either a black leather or a blue rubber strap. I think Baume & Mercier needs to offer a matching green rubber strap here. The black and blue colours won’t help complement the dial quite like the green.
Unlike the case and bezel design, the bracelet comes with brushed surfaces. The only polished surface on the bracelet is hidden inside: the folding clasp and its safety-push buttons. With the high level in which the case and bezel is finished, I feel that Baume & Mercier could have done a better job with the bracelet design. While it’s by no means a negative aspect of the watch, just having the central links of the bracelet in a polished finish would have uplifted the overall appearance of the bracelet and complimented the exceptional design of the watch.
Baumatic Calibre BM13 1975A Movement:
The brand’s proprietary Baumatic Calibre BM13 1975A movement is encased inside the signature Riviera case. The Baumatic manufacture movement is one of the best calibres created by Baume & Mercier. This Baumatic Calibre BM13 1975A movement has been derived from a manual winding calibre released by Baume & Mercier’s sister company Manufacture Horlogère ValFleurier, who, like Baume & Mercier is also owned by Richmont Group.
What truly sets this movement apart is the impressive power reserve, which is 120 hours or five days! There aren’t too many luxury timepieces on the market today that offer a five-day power reserve for $6,000 AUD. Baume & Mercier states that this extended power reserve is achieved thanks to their Powerscape technology, which the brand describes as “The new high-performance escapement equipped with Powerscape technology comprises an anchor and escape wheel in silicon, featuring a thoroughly optimized geometry. Its new design based on complex shapes serves to: Improve torque transmission between the components / Drastically reduce losses relating to friction = increase efficiency / Thus ensures 30% higher autonomy”. The watch also operates at a high frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz), which is also another impressive feat considering its high autonomy. Usually, the higher the frequency at which the watch operates, the less autonomy it has.
The Baumatic Calibre BM13 1975A movement also comes with the TWINSPIR hairspring technology, which the brand explains as “The new hairspring is endowed with the TWINSPIR technology: a composite structure, combining two cores of silicon, alternately set at a 45-degree angle and bound by a silicon dioxide layer that also plays a role in ensuring thermocompensation. Combined with a newly shaped variable inertia balance wheel, it delivers the following benefits: Improved accuracy of the movement in various positions and over the long run / Reduced sensitivity to magnetism / Greater resistance to small impacts and repeated vibrations.”
The Riviera 10770 comes with an open case back in which you can view the Baumatic Calibre BM13 1975A movement. The movement is beautifully decorated with a range of finishes from perlage on the main plate to the finely brushed Geneva wave motif on the skeletonised winding rotor.
How Does The Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 Wear?
On paper, the 39mm case, which is just 10.21mm thick, should fit nicely on the wrist. When i had the bracelet resized and tried the watch on properly, I found this to be precisely to be the case. The tapered lugs of the case also help to provide a smoother fit on the wrist, ending just on the edge of the wrist without protruding out.
The bracelet, while being nothing special in terms of aesthetic design, fits my slim wrists without having to worry about the watch moving around; personally, there’s nothing I hate more when it comes to luxury timepieces than an ill-fitting bracelet. Sometimes even if brands have smaller removable links for a better fit, it can still lead to watch dangling on my wrist ever-so-slightly. This is where micro-adjustments can undoubtedly come in handy; however, even without that, I felt this Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 fit right.
The emerald-green smoked sapphire dial is, as I stated earlier, my favourite dial colour in the current Riviera collection. Not only does this colour stand out surprisingly well, but it also makes a heavy case for bringing back green dials into modern watchmaking! While it may not be everyone’s cup of tea, the emerald-green dial stands out so much more from the traditional black, blue and silver/grey colour tones.
The timepiece’s overall wrist presence impressed me the more I wore it. The main focal point is the dial; however, as mentioned earlier, the case design also draws attention. The mix of a 12-sided bezel and a circular dial is a design that carries timeless elegance and luxury appeal. The case finishing is also noticeable at first glance. The polished sides of the bezel stand out beautifully, especially in sunlight, amongst the satin-brushed surfaces surrounding it. This is why I felt the bracelet could have been better executed to suit the exceptional details on the case and dial. If the bracelet featured polished finishing as well, it would have made the timepiece even more appealing!
But this is a minor detail in what I believe to be one of the best timepieces in its price range. Not many watches on the market today offer the beauty of this dial, while also boasting a movement that operates at an accuracy of 28,800 VpH or boast a five-day power reserve.
Final Thoughts:
To summarise this timepiece, the Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 is a watch that offers exceptional aesthetic design, functional movement, and affordability. For what you spend on the watch, you get so much back in return! The watch’s dial features multiple design details, and just that alone, I would have expected this watch to be priced higher.
The movement also packs quite a punch, with a five-day power reserve and a host of other technological advancements that give it greater resistance to magnetic fields, shocks, and vibrations. This balance of form and function is what makes the Riviera 10770 more than just a timepiece. It’s a statement of refined versatility.
Moreover, the Riviera also speaks about the Baume & Mercier’s push to evolve a classic design without losing its essence. From the very first Riviera, to this modern update, we can see how it has improved in design, such as incorporating a better-fitting integrated bracelet design that seamlessly merges with the iconic 12-sided bezel. This is then further enhanced with these latest Riviera timepieces being smaller and slimmer in size, catering to the demands of the modern watch market. The Baume & Mercier 10770 is an exceptional choice for modern enthusiasts who appreciate elegance, sportiness and beautifully coloured dials with a movement that packs a punch!
Reference: 10770
Specifications
- Case Size: 39mm
- Case Lug-To-Lug: 47mm
- Case Thickness: 10.21mm
- Case Material: Steel, Polished/satin-finished
- Dial: Emerald-green dial colour on smoked sapphire. Doré 5N dauphine shaped hands with Super-LumiNova.
- Movement: In-house Baumatic Calibre BM13 1975A
- Power Reserve: 120 hours (5 days)
- Water Resistance: 100m (10 bar)
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.
- Strap/Bracelet: Three-link stainless steel bracelet with quick-release.
