Finally, the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow has a titanium bracelet to match! But can it change my mind on the ladder-style bracelet? Let’s find out!
What We Love:
- Great movement specs and finishing
- Plenty of micro-adjustment holes for easy wear
- A sleek, sporty yet geometric design
What We Don’t:
- The clasp isn’t as refined as it could be
- Ladder bracelet isn’t for everybody
- Retro styling may not suit all people’s tastes
Final Score: 8/10
- Value for Money: 7/10
- Wearability: 9/10
- Design: 8/10
- Build Quality: 8/10
“If You Know, You Know/IYKYK”: A phrase that I keep seeing being used all around social media. It’s a statement I often find used to infer that only a select amount of people know about a certain thing. It’s kind of cool and funny when done for inside jokes, but more often than not I see the term overused to gate-keep to an annoying degree. From withholding movie titles to restaurants – some people need to wake up and realise that buying Adidas Sambas, watching Set It Up or going to that poké place down the road doesn’t make you the main character of anything.
Conversely, if used in moderation, it can make a community feel truly special and grateful to be a part of a tight-knit fan base. In that respect, I believe that Le Locle watch brand Zenith is the definition of an IYKYK community. I’ve not met a single Zenith wearer who doesn’t absolutely love Zenith – every single one who, upon mentioning my appreciation for their watch of choice, has given me a 10-20 minute seminar on why they love it and the brand so much. To be honest, it’s not hard to understand why.
On top of their well-established design chops and technical craftsmanship, Zenith’s reputation is rooted in their heritage. Their run during the 60s and 70s was nothing short of legendary, effectively cementing them as one of the greatest chronograph manufacturers of all time. Even in the modern day, they haven’t forgotten the icons that made them great, which became one of the main driving forces for the introduction of the Zenith Revival series.
More than just modern tributes to the watches of yore, the Revival lineup saw Zenith faithfully and accurately reproduce dozens of heritage references. This didn’t mean that they couldn’t give their pieces a new twist, however; Based on an all-black prototype of the famous model A384, the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow (Shadow for short) was born in 2020, swapping out the black for titanium and outfitted with a modern El Primero movement. Back then, it only had the fabric strap – but this year, Zenith has at long last given it a titanium bracelet to match.
First Impressions
Have you ever watched Bob Ross’ The Joy of Painting? There was this one particular episode – Season 2, Episode 4 – where Ross recounts a meeting with a fan of his who claimed that he couldn’t paint because he was colourblind. He then proceeded with the episode to paint in only grey tones, to prove that anyone could paint.
Similarly, I felt that the Shadow was an example of just that in watchmaking: even with the complete absence of colour and shine, you could still make a brilliant watch. I always felt that the biggest detractor to my love of the Shadow was that it didn’t have a bracelet to go along with it. Not that there was anything wrong with the fabric strap it came with, but I just felt it didn’t suit the watch as well as a bracelet would.
So when Zenith told us that the watch was going to have a bracelet, I got fairly excited, as it’s something that I’m sure plenty of people besides myself have been campaigning about for ages. Because I was a little under the weather at the time, Matt hand delivered the watch to my house. Him pulling up late at night (ok, it wasn’t that late, early evening to be precise) to my place to make the drop made me feel like the sketchiest person on the planet – but nothing nefarious was going down, so I should probably lay off watching Better Call Saul to allay my paranoia.
It turns out that the bracelet on the Shadow was the divisive ladder bracelet. At first, I was a little bewildered, since I’d never actually seen such a bracelet in person. I’d only seen it on the internet, and while internet forums can run rife with detractors of every brand, design, shape and form, I decided to stop looking at what the internet had told me to anticipate, and I give it a go for myself!
The Design
The Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow offers a modern take on the retro appeal of vintage Zenith timepieces. Encased in micro-blasted titanium, I thought this watch was actually ceramic at first. I’ve not seen Grade 2 titanium this dark before, so it really confused me until I looked up the specifications. Granted, the only other Grade 2 titanium pieces I’ve ever seen are the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph and the Tudor Pelagos lineup, so I didn’t have much reference to go off – But that’s neither here nor there.
The dial of the Shadow Revival, as expected, lives up to its name, coloured in two different shades. The first is a matte stone grey, decorating the tachymetric scale and chronograph registers somewhat reminiscent of the Grade 2 titanium case; The second is a slightly darker anthracite black, contrasting with the stone grey to differentiate the main dial from its chronograph properties.
Both shades are again contrasted by white printed text on the tachymeter, chronograph registers, and dial. I love the use of shades here – of course, it’s in keeping with the Shadow theme, but it goes to show that even in the absence of colour and pizzazz, Zenith can still make a watch both legible and beautiful. Another detail you may notice missing from this Revival is the lack of a date window at 4:30, typical of most Zenith designs. Personally, I didn’t mind it, but haters of the date window should be jumping for joy right about now.
The hands and indexes are similarly minimalistic, with simple lumed baton hands for the hours and minutes and a white chronograph second hand with a small rectangular block of lume. The indexes are one of the few shiny components of the entire watch (aside from the polished Zenith Star and movement), with classic polished rhodium bordering the rectangular lume blocks. I appreciate the shape of the indexes matching the lume on the chrono second hand, lining up almost perfectly when the hand passes each one during use.
Unlike most watch designs, the Shadow omits a bezel in favour of a flat dial and a box sapphire crystal. While it’s extremely tricky to pull off in non-retro designs – I’ve heard some people claim that the Shadow looks like ‘a watch with no eyebrows’ – it still gives the piece a level of depth from the top-down view, and tastefully distorts the dial when viewing from the side. Another factor that enhances the depth of the watch is its case shape. While it seems rather blocky and geometric from the top-down, viewing it from the sides shows that the top of the case curves elegantly away from the crystal. In an effect similar to a dolly zoom camera shot, the pulling back of the case makes the dial the main focus of your eyes.
The titanium is matte-finished throughout, which in combination with its case shape is almost brutalist in nature. Even with a diminutive frame, the Shadow still comes across as sleek and resolute, similar to the unembellished surfaces often found in the concrete structures of brutalism. The curvature of the case is enhanced by chamfering along the case flanks, which meet a fluted crown signed with the Zenith Star. The curves continue across the lug width, where the case curves upwards and the lugs inwards to meet the end links of the similarly finished titanium ladder-style bracelet.
Gay Frères, designer of the ladder bracelet for Zenith, believed that the ladder style would provide more airflow and evoke a sportier look in the original Defy series that he designed, and while I’ll talk more about the wearability of the bracelet shortly, I recognise that it’s not quite for everybody. I highly suggest you give this one a chance, though, as I, after wearing this for nearly a week, can’t imagine this on a normal H-link bracelet or otherwise.
Yes, they look a little funny in the photos, but I think matte titanium evokes the sporty aesthetic intended for the original lineup than stainless steel ever did. Finally, the movement is visible through the transparent case back of the Shadow, which evokes some of the original Defy DNA with a dodecagonal frame for the case back.
How It Wears
If the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow experience taught me anything, it’s that I can pull off a 37mm watch annoyingly well. The case diameter feels proportionate to the rest of the on-paper dimensions of 46mm lug-to-lug and a 12.8mm thickness. Compared to most other chronographs, the Shadow is slightly on the thinner side, but because of the case geometry, it looks like it rides up more than usual. I wasn’t too concerned, though, as it could still fit under a jacket or a hoodie comfortably.
As insinuated, the wearability of the Shadow is greatly helped by its chosen case material. Other than being exceptionally strong, titanium is exceptionally light, so I had absolutely no issues regarding weight distribution. It’s also easy to buff out scratches, too – but they should be somewhat less evident on the matte finish, and can be buffed out fairly easily.
The clasp, while providing plenty of holes for micro-adjustments, I still have reservations over. In titanium, I found it less annoying, but it felt oversized for a 37mm watch and not as thought-out as other elements of the watch. The clasp is a classic flip-and-friction lock, and for me was slightly fiddly to open, however, it does the job as it should. Saying this, I felt that the refinement of the clasp could have been slightly better, but this could just be me being pedantic.
In reality, the star of the show here is the ladder bracelet. Yes, I know I said it’s not for everyone, but again, give it a chance! Frères was right – the ladder bracelet not only contributes to the aesthetic of the timepiece but also makes it significantly more breathable! As a guy who often gets uncomfortable if a watch is worn too long (especially during hotter weather, which we get a lot of), I find myself applauding its use here. It really paid dividends in my overall wearing experience of the Shadow and made my time with it all the more enjoyable.
The underside of the bracelet, doesn’t come with quick-release spring bars, but after all I’ve said about the ladder bracelet, why would you? I honestly think it’s the perfect accompaniment to this type of retro-inspired piece. As I mentioned, I was personally never a fan of that fabric strap, but I think a NATO would be more appropriate here. Yes, 19mm NATO straps are few and far between, but that doesn’t mean they can’t be found. I would love to see this on an olive-coloured one for a militaristic look, or even a striped one matching the shades of the Shadow (no pun intended).
The Movement
If there’s something I wholeheartedly believe is faultless in Zenith, it’s their movement manufacturing. The movement behind the Chronomaster Revival Shadow is the El Primero 4061, an old reliable chronograph movement for Zenith that has been in circulation as far back as a decade.
The El Primero name carries a significant horological punch, as it has a reputation as one of the first ever automatic chronograph movements, released in 1965. I know I’ve clowned on the El Primero before as part of my Education Article for the Chronograph, but that doesn’t mean they don’t deserve any less respect for what they’ve done in the industry. The other key component that also set Zenith apart from the industry standard was the staggeringly fast 5Hz (36,000VpH) beat rate of the El Primero, allowing the measurement of up to 1/10th of a second. This fast and accurate beat rate has been a signature for Zenith ever since.
The finishing on the El Primero 4061 is far from pedestrian, which is always awesome to see. There’s a wide variety of finishing and styles available for you to ogle at, from the Zenith Star rotor to the perlage on the baseplate, and even a blued screw and column wheel. Watching the escapement go for its life at 5Hz is as mesmerising as it gets, and for all intents and purposes the movement is certainly a complete package, especially with up to five years of international warranty coverage.
AU$15,100 is a tall order for those not accustomed to Zenith’s level of engineering and craftsmanship. In the grand scheme of things, it isn’t a far cry from the rest of the lineup – for example, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport sits at $17,500 – but that also means that it’s one of the prime competitors that could take precedence over the Shadow in your collection. There is a healthy sprinkling of other contenders at that price range too, such as the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronosprint, IWC TOP GUN series, or the Breitling Premier B15 Duograph.
However, all the watches mentioned cater to a significantly larger wrist size (especially the latter). It’s also important to take into consideration the wearing experience of each piece. Having worn all three, I’d say that the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow sits comfortably on its own, especially since it’s the only one besides the Chronomaster Sport that comes with a metal bracelet.
Final Thoughts
I’m always a sucker for the retro and vintage stuff, and I’m surprised that the Zenith Revival series had gone as unnoticed for as long as it did. I’m glad that I discovered it, though, as the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow is probably my favourite among the lineup.
For a watch named Shadow, it definitely brings some of the best qualities of the Revival series to light. It’s a blast from the past that feels ahead of its time; The almost brutalist design is perfect for modern sensibilities, yet the aesthetic is indicative of the 60s/70s era of styling and projects a retro charm. The ladder bracelet is a perfect accompaniment to its sporty attitude, but it’s the titanium that really drives home the feeling that you’re wearing a watch built for sports activities.
While it does have its shortcomings, no watch is without flaws – whoever tells you otherwise is selling something. But, they are all easily outweighed by the sheer reputation and quality of work that Zenith puts into all of their timepieces. If you’re into the retro look, but you’re not ready to commit to a true vintage watch, I highly recommend you give this piece and the entire Revival lineup at Zenith a look!
Reference: 97.T384.4061/21.M384
Specifications
- Dimensions: 37mm case diameter x 46mm lug-to-lug x 12.8mm thickness
- Case Material: Sandblasted grade 2 titanium
- Dial: Black
- Water resistance: 50m (50 Bar)
- Movement: In-house automatic El Primero 4061 movement
- Movement Frequency: 5Hz (36,000 VpH)
- Power reserve: 50 hours
- Bracelet: Titanium ladder bracelet with friction-lock clasp
