A collaboration between a microbrand and one of the most powerful players in all of haute horlogerie might seem like a pipe dream to some. For the charming Studio Underd0g and the venerable H. Moser & Cie., it’s a dream come true.
“Why can’t horology be m0re playful from time to time?” – The slogan that remains the driving force behind Studio Underd0g. A British microbrand founded during the height of the COVID pandemic, Studio Underd0g started as merely a passion project on a Facebook community page.
However, founder Richard Benc would soon find that he had struck gold. The brand’s maiden watch, the 01SERIES, became a staple in the world of affordable horology. This was in large part due to its dedication to serious watchmaking, whilst being encased in quirky, unserious designs like the Watermel0n or the Mint Ch0c Chip – the latter of which yours truly even got to review!
Related Reading: Hands-On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip
Being nominated for a GPHG award in 2023 was also bound to attract attention towards Studio Underd0g, and Edouard Meylan, CEO of legendary watchmaking brand H. Moser & Cie., began to take notice. The passionate story behind Studio Underd0g would leave an impression on him, as would their dedication to serious watchmaking and non-serious design – something Meylan knew all too much about himself.
So, for Geneva Watch Days 2024, it seems that Benc and Meylan have elected to twist horological fate, teaming up from opposite ends of the industry to present Project Passion: A shared vision of creativity, the love of horology and playful rebelliousness in the face of the often grey and overly mature watch world.
Each brand has created a watch to represent the spirit of what Project Passion is all about, themed around the most passionate fruit of all: the passion fruit, of course! Starting with H. Moser, their offering is a new take on the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, using a duet of purple lacquer and delicately hammered grand feu enamel to represent the colours of the passionfruit. A contrasting green is also used for the month indicator, representing the seed of passion that begins the journey of every watch enthusiast.
Powered by the star HMC 800 perpetual calendar movement, Meylan and the H. Moser team have spared no expense in this project. As you can see from the image below, it is typical Moser in style and finish!
Related Reading: The Art Of Complications – The Perpetual Calendar
On the flip side, Richard Benc and Studio Underd0g have taken the time to tease the coming of an all-new collection with the Passi0n Fruit, which is the first of what has been named the 03SERIES. A major upgrade to the 01SERIES, the Passi0n Fruit boasts a multilayer yellow dégradé dial with purple accents, similar to its partner over at H. Moser.
This time, however, the 03SERIES sets the previous ST1901 movement aside to use the Swiss Sellita SW510 M. Not only does this make the 03SERIES the first Studio Underd0g chronograph with a Swiss movement, but also the first mono-pusher chronograph in the entire lineup.
Final Thoughts
While their watches are certainly in the running for a top list of my favourites, I can undoubtedly say that both H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g are my favourite watch brands of all time. The ways in which Meylan and Benc carry themselves in an industry often dominated by snobbery and pretentiousness is incredibly admirable, which is reflected in the epic yet goofy nature of their watchmaking here.
Yes, there is a significant gap that may divide their audiences in two, but Project Passion stands as a reminder that the love of watchmaking should triumph over all. No matter what watch you’re wearing, how much it costs, what it looks like, or whatever amazing qualities it may possess, always remember you are in this industry because you love it so much. And regardless of what the person next to you is wearing, oftentimes they’re in it for the same reason as you.
Reference: H. Moser: 1800-1200
- Dimensions: H. Moser – 42mm case diameter x 12.8mm thickness / Studio Underd0g – 38.5mm case diameter x 13.6mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: H. Moser – Purple lacquer fumé & yellow grand feu enamel / Studio Underd0g – Yellow dégradé dial with purple accents
- Movement: H. Moser: Manual wind HMC 800 with perpetual calendar / Studio Underd0g: Manual wind Sellita 510M
- Beat Rate: H. Moser: 2.5Hz (18,000VpH) / Studio Underd0g: 4Hz (28,800VpH)
- Power Reserve: H. Moser: 168h/7 days / Studio Underd0g: 63h
- Strap: H. Moser: Black alligator with steel folding clasp / Studio Underd0g: Black calfskin with steel pin buckle
