In a brand first, Arnold & Son’s Perpetual Moon 38 collection welcomes two limited edition runs in 18k red gold – without any diamonds.
Arnold & Son is what I refer to as a ‘legacy brand’ in the watch space, amongst the likes of Breguet, Louis Moinet or even F.P. Journe. They all share the same thing in common, that being their foundation and close association to the namesake of the brand. John Arnold, namesake of Arnold & Son, was the inventor of the first marine chronometer and an instrumental player in the invention of the tourbillon, so for a brand to carry on his legacy for close to three centuries is no easy feat.
Related Reading: The Art of Complications: Tourbillons
Yet, Arnold & Son does so with a level of finesse and brand identity not commonly seen in standard watch brands. For this year’s showing at Geneva Watch Days, they have opted to expand the reach of their standout Perpetual Moon collection in 38mm, showcasing their vast knowledge of artistry and brand heritage.
Encased in 18k red gold, this duo of watches is the first of their kind not to be encased in diamonds. Though it may seem that the design choice was made to save time or money, Arnold & Son have a knack for letting no detail go to waste. Thus, they have opted to make the dial the main attraction of the watch, as opposed to the dazzling extravagance of cut and set diamonds.
And an attraction the dial certainly is – in this new pair of Arnold & Son timepieces, you have the choice between two colourways. The first, a spectacular blue Aventurine glass bespeckled with metallic particles; The second, a sunray-brushed ‘cliff grey’ complete with a matte blue PVD depicting the night sky.
Speaking of the night sky, Arnold & Son’s most recognisable aperture takes precedence between the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock indexes: A large cut-out depicting the aforementioned sky, decorated with countless spots representing the stars. As time goes by, a large moon disc, finished in mother-of-pearl and lumed green at night, orbits the aperture. The moon is flanked by the constellations Cassiopeia and Ursa Major, which to the non-astronomically inclined (such as myself) will seem purely coincidental.
Related Reading: What Is A Moonphase Complication, And How Does It Work?
Given John Arnold’s history, it’s hardly the case. As mentioned before, John Arnold was the inventor of the first marine chronometer, which enabled sailors to accomplish the once-impossible task of finding longitude at sea. Naval navigation is at the heart of the Arnold & Son brand, and they ensure that it is properly paid homage towards, even in a dress piece. Cassiopeia and Ursa Major – more specifically, the Big Dipper – have been used endlessly in the Northern Hemisphere to find the North Star (Polaris). The former’s position defines North’s position in the North-South plane, permitting for the estimation of latitude in navigation.
All this is possible through the use of Arnold & Son’s manual wind A&S1612 movement. Beating at 3Hz (21,600VpH) backed by a staggering 90h power reserve, it packs the technical punch needed to match the horological heritage upheld by the craftsmen at Arnold & Son. It follows in the Arnold & Son tradition to develop movement with long power reserves, and has the beauty to match, with its finishing visible through the sapphire case back.
Final Thoughts
Though I am personally a big fan of the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 41.5mm, the ability to offer a similar level of craftsmanship in a smaller package is always welcome, both for the small-wristed gentleman and the female watch enthusiast. Limited to just 88 and 28 pieces respectively, the Aventurine and Cliff Grey Perpetual Moon 38s may not be sticking around, but set a precedent for Arnold & Son’s path moving forward.
The watch world has recently seen a boom in the creation of watches for watch fans. Gone are the days of the wrist monster, though some still lurk around every corner for those who seek them out. Now, it’s about ensuring that the elegant nature of the wristwatch is also matched by a level of modesty in sizing. Arnold & Son, through the presentation of this new set of 38mm pieces, have begun to follow in the industry’s footsteps – and their contributions may leave the watch world all the richer for it, horologically and literally!
References:
- Aventurine Dial: 1GLBR.A01A.C282A
- Grey Dial: 1GLBR.U02A.C283A
Specifications
- Case Size: 38mm
- Case Thickness: 10.44mm
- Case Material: 18k 5N rose gold
- Dial: Blue Aventurine or ‘cliff grey’ with Aventurine or midnight blue PVD accents
- Movement: In-House mechanical A&S1612 movement with moonphase
- Movement Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 VpH)
- Power Reserve: 90 hours
- Water Resistance: 300m (30 bar)
- Strap/Bracelet: Integrated stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp, comes with complementary black rubber strap with ‘starry sky’ pattern
