The luxury Swiss watchmaker pays tribute to brutalism with the new asymmetrical watch that was created in 1960.
Audemars Piguet has dug into its archives for this latest “[RE]Master” timepiece. This limited edition reference, however, is still a unique design today as it was when it was first released in 1960. While it has been almost 4 years since the release of the first [RE]Master 01, it’s good to see that the brand is continuing this collection. The [RE]Master collection is the beginning of a new line of timepieces from Audemars Piguet that dives into their history to recreate classic masterpieces.
In this collection, we were first treated to the [RE]Master 01, which was a chronograph inspired by the 1943 chronograph (Ref. Pre-model 1533). This timepiece featured an extra-thin bezel, a tachymeter scale within the dial and a clear, simple tri-counter layout. Only 9 models of this reference were released between 1943 and 1948. While the timepiece was certainly released in limited quantity back then, Audemars Piguet brought it back in 2020 as the first timepiece to introduce their new [RE]Master collection.
Now, we have the second edition of what is a promising collection in which modern-day enthusiasts can purchase truly unique Audemars Piguet watches. The second watch taps into Audemars Piguet’s asymmetrical watches, which the brand actually created a lot of in the mid-20th century. It is stated that during the 60s, Audemars Piguet produced an enormous 30 different asymmetrical watch designs. While it may be hard to track down every single reference, there are quite a few examples available online for reference, including the above two timepieces.
The latest [RE]Master 02 is a revamped version of one of these 30 asymmetrical models, model 5159BA. This watch’s design is easily memorable and will certainly leave a lasting impression. While Audemars Piguet has taken the model 5159BA to be re-created, they haven’t exactly stayed faithful to the measurements of the original. The new [RE]Master 02 is much larger than the original, with the width of the timepiece increased from 27mm to 41mm. The other most notable change is the dial and case colours. While the case for the original was yellow gold, Audemars Piguet has used one of their new case materials: Sand Gold. This is an 18k gold alloy with a beautiful sand colour finish.
Chamath is trying on the Audemars Piguet [RE]Master 02, and the Sand Gold colour comes to life at different lighting angles!
The release of this material recently on the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked model made headlines simply for just how stunning the watch was. It is a colour that needs really needs to be seen in person to appreciate as I feel pictures just simply don’t do it justice (see video above!). The hues of Sand Gold vary between white and pink gold depending on the light. So then it makes sense to use the same material on this second [RE]Master model.
The second variation from the original is the dial colours and finish. While the original came with a plain white dial with black “asymmetrical” lines that act as hour indices. The new model, however, comes with a beautiful midnight blue (named Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50) sunburst finish dial, which also has a brushed type finish on the dial upon close inspection. The lines/hour indices are then finished in sand colour, while the thin hands are also done in case matching 18k sand gold. One cool detail of the dial, which you won’t immediately notice in the pictures, is that it has cut-outs at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock for the minute hand to pass through. This way, the size of the hands isn’t compromised, and neither is the off-centre placement of the rectangular dial.
The movement inside is the Audemars Piguet automatic calibre 7129, which has been derived from the Royal Oak Jumbo (latest gen.) calibre 7121. The movement is ultra-thin, measuring in at just 2.8mm. The movement operates at a high frequency, too, at 28,800 VpH (5hz) and is able to give a power reserve of 52 hours. Unlike the original model 5159BA, the [RE]Master takes the more modern approach and comes with an open case back. Through the sapphire case back, we can see various finishing techniques, including Geneva stripes and also the uniquely designed skeleton winding rotor, which has asymmetrical cutouts representing the design of the watch.
Final Thoughts
The [RE]Master 02 is a stunning rendition of a timepiece that Audemars Piguet experimented with in the 1960s. This remastered version takes the original and sprays some sand gold “dust” to bring the brutalism art display to life. While I’m not personally a fan of asymmetrical watches, the execution of this timepiece is done in the best way possible.
The 18k Sand Gold contrasts beautifully with the midnight blue dial and alligator leather strap. As mentioned earlier, the Sand Gold colour needs to be seen in person to fully appreciate its beauty. The polished 18k Sand Gold hands and hour marker “lines” also stand out well against the midnight blue dial.
With a thickness of 9.7mm, the watch also sits well on the wrist. As you can see on Chamath’s wrist in the above photos, the asymmetrical shape of the case doesn’t feel out of place on the wrist. To those unaware of Audemars Piguet’s history, the timepiece looks like a modern, retro-designed watch. Due to the unique design of the case, this will certainly not be everyone’s cup of tea. Regardless, however, you have to admit Audemars Piguet has done a wonderful job of recreating one of their historical pieces in a modern light.
The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master 02 will be available for purchase through AP boutiques and is limited to a production of just 250 timepieces.
Reference: 15240SG.OO.A347CR.01
Specifications:
- Case Size: 41mm case width
- Case Material: 18-carat sand gold
- Dial: Parted blue dial with parallel brush effect, sand gold hands.
- Movement: Automatic In-house Calibre 7129
- Movement Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
- Movement: Power Reserve: 52 hours
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Strap/Bracelet: Blue contrasted alligator strap, 18-carat sand gold pin buckle.
