Ulysse Nardin introduces two Diver Ops pieces, the Diver NET Ops and the Diver X Skeleton Ops, both hard as nails and eco-friendly!
Introduced in 2020 as a concept watch, The Diver NET was groundbreaking for not only Ulysse Nardin but also a major step for the watch industry in general. The concept was to take the Ulysee Nardin Diver and have every trim element on the watch be as environmentally friendly as possible by using recycled materials from the ocean- everything from recycled plastic, fishing nets, and other recyclable materials that shouldn’t be floating around the world’s oceans. On top, this piece also used more environmentally friendly materials, like the transparent Ceramic Glass instead of sapphire.
Flash forward 4 years and Ulysse Nardin brings us their latest capsule collection in the form of the Diver NET OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS – combining the edgy design of the 2023 Freak OPS with the eco-friendly materials found in the Diver NET.
Diver NET OPS
Based on the highly popular Diver collection, the Diver NET OPS looks like it should be strapped to the wrist of a Navy Seal, with rugged lines and military colouring via the use of Khaki on the dial and strap. The case is made out of 95% recycled steel, and the side parts of the case and the caseback are made from a combination of Nylo® (60%) and Carbonium® (40%).
According to Ulysse Nardin, “Nylo is a polyamide formed from upcycled fishing nets, while Carbonium® is a cutting-edge material with exceptional strength-to-lightness properties that is produced using the same carbon fibers found in state-of-the-art aircraft wings and fuselages”. In fact, the Diver NET Ops uses the leftover offcuts from the making of these aircraft, which cuts down the environmental footprint by up to 40%.
The camouflage-looking bezel is also made of Carbonium®, and as a result of the manufacturing process, produces a marbling effect – similar to the way Carbon cases have this type of effect and no two ever look exactly the same. On the Sandblasted Khaki green dial, you have a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, telling you how much of the 60 hours is left, and at 6 o’clock, a small seconds sub-dial and crisscrossing the dial, a satin finish and embossed X on it.
The watch features Ulysse Nardin’s in-house caliber UN-118, featuring a 60-hour power reserve and a balance spring in silicon – another industry first from Ulysse Nardin and still one of the only Manufactures to have their own Silicon production facility. In addition, the escapement is coated in DiamonSil – a patented form of diamond-coated silicon that Ulysse Nardin says delivers a greater level of precision and durability.
RELATED READING: The Ulysse Nardin Diver NET & Diver X Skeleton Azure Blue
Diver X Skeleton OPS
The second piece in the collection is the Diver X Skeleton OPS. Taking the design and aesthetics of the Diver NET OPS, Ulysse Nardin has given it the skeleton treatment. Unlike its counterpart, the Diver X Skeleton OPS features a case made from high-tech, lightweight titanium, and then given a black DLC coating to look the part. It still retains the bezel made from Carbonium® as is also the barrel cover allowing the overall look of the bezel and case to bleed into the movement.
Through the front, you can see Ulysee Nardin’s Skeletonised UN-372 movement – a time-only automatic movement with 72 hours of power and a silicon balance spring, which you can see beating away through the dial at the 6 o’clock position. You’ll also notice the black PVD-coated X acting as the bridge that dominates the dial.
Flipping the watch over, you can clearly see the UN-372 Calibre via the sapphire caseback showcasing the X-shaped rotor done in black, complete with the titanium caseback. Unlike the Diver NET OPS with the UN-118 beating at 4Hz, this caliber beats at a slower 3Hz and pivots on just 23 jewels.
Both pieces come on a Khaki green fabric strap that is partly made from upcycled fishing nets which adds to the industrial, military look and feel of the pieces. Or if the Nato strap isn’t your thing, then you can choose either of these watches on a Kahaki rubber strap – complete with the black ceramic insert at 6 o’clock and a black ceramic and black PVD titanium deployant buckle.
Both watches are 44mm in diameter, but the Diver NET OPS is slightly thinner at 14.81mm high due to its case construction even though it has an additional 100m water resistance, giving it a 300m depth rating, not to mention the small seconds and power reserve indicator. The Diver X Skeleton OPS comes in at 15.7mm high, but being titanium and lighter, this won’t be all that noticeable on the wrist.
Initial Thoughts
While I’ve not seen these in person yet (however, I will be viewing them next week), I’m quite familiar with the Diver range from Ulysse Nardin. They are not your conventional dive watches, but then again, Ulysse Nardin is not your typical watch company – their hero product is called The Freak after all, and when you talk to Ulysse Nardin CEO, Patrick Pruniaux, you start to understand why they do what they do. For Ulysse Nardin and Patrick, it’s all about being daring, audacious, and bold. The Diver NET and Diver X Skeleton OPS are just this- bold, daring, and audacious.
But it’s not only the watches themselves that are daring and bold – the whole idea behind them is as well. Watchmaking is not an easy game, and working with unique materials is even harder. Layer this on top with the lofty goal of producing watches that are much more eco-friendly than your standard mass-produced pieces, using new, unique, and upcycled materials and you have a brand that is trying something different to set itself apart from the crowd…with watches that will set their wearers apart from the crowd!
Both the Diver NET and Diver X Skeleton OPS are bold, rugged, and ultimately fun watches that will, should you be fortunate enough to procure one, set you apart from the crowd, but also give you that warm fuzzy feeling knowing that you’re supporting a brand that is doing something good for the planet. It’s a win-win!
References:
- Diver NET OPS: 1183-170-8A/0A (fabric strap) / 1183-170-8A/3A (rubber strap)
- Diver X Skeleton OPS: 3723-170-2C/0A (fabric strap) / 3723-170-2C/3A (rubber strap)
Specifications:
- Size: 44 mm, 14.81mm thick (Diver NET) or 44mm, 15.7mm thick (Diver X)
- Case Material: 95% Recycled Steel (Diver NET) or black DLC titanium (Diver X). Both with 60% Nylo®and 40% Carbonium® side case and Carbonium® bezel
- Dial: Sandblasted Khaki Green dial with embossed X (Diver NET) or X-shaped skeleton dial in polished and satin-finished black PVD. Carbonium® barrel cover.
- Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.
- Water resistance: 300m (Diver NET) or 200m (Diver X)
- Movement: In-house Automatic Calibers UN-118 (Diver NET) or UN-372 (Diver X)
- Power reserve: 60 hours (Diver NET) or 72 hours (Diver X)
- Strap: Choice of either a Khaki green fabric strap with scratch closing partly made from upcycled fishing nets, or a Khaki green rubber strap with “Ulysse Nardin” black ceramic element at 6 o’clock and black ceramic and black PVD titanium deployant buckle
Recommended Retail Pricing: Diver Net – USD $13,300 (~ A$20,000 ) and Diver X – USD $27,500 (~A$41,300)
Availability: Available exclusively at The Hour Glass in Sydney, Brisbane, and Melbourne. To enquire, head to TheHourGlass.com
