A signature Jaeger-LeCoultre complication, the Polaris Geographic reinterprets travel time!
The revival of the Polaris name in 2018 saw Jaeger-LeCoultre redefine what a modern sporty-elegant timepiece would look like. The Polaris line has grown substantially since then, with the collection featuring a variety of complications. The Polaris collection pays homage to the Maison’s diving timepieces of the 1960s.
The core essence of the Polaris collection is that it perfectly balances practical functions (complications) with elegant aesthetic styling. This styling has become a signature feature of the Polaris collection, with the most prominent being the hour indices in a mixture of elongated trapezoid indices and Arabic 3-6-9 numeral layout. Another signature design code of the Polaris collection is in their cases, where we see off-centre crowns for many of the different complication pieces.
The dial finish is also another stand-out feature of the Polars. Jaeger-LeCoultre has been careful not to implement too many contrasting features and let the dial elements subtly blend in while still being aesthetically beautiful. The Polaris dial’s appearance is enhanced by gradient colour and the use of different decorative finishes – opaline, graining, sunray-brushing and snailing, according to the model – beneath a coating of rich and shiny lacquer. The colour is graduated from light to dark, which gives the subtle blending effect of the dial to the inner bezel ring, while also adding great visual depth and dynamism to the dials.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest timepiece to grace the Polaris collection is the Geographic. As the name may suggest, the Geographic is a reinterpretation of the classic travel time watch. The Polaris Geographic was first introduced in 2018, with the reintroduction of the Polaris collection. The Polaris Geographic back then, however, looked much different from what we see today, albeit with a few more complications. It should also be noted that this isn’t the only Geographic model in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s current lineup. The brand also has a Geographic model as a part of its Master Control collection, which carries a similar design as per the 2018 Polaris Geographic WT, just without the world timer (WT) complication.
In retrospect, this latest Polaris Geographic is a much simpler design. Using the three sub-dial layouts of past Polaris Geographic and Master Control Geographic on this current dial, where we are entertained with the different finishing and styling, would simply have been too much.
Case Construction
This latest Polaris Geographic is presented on a 42mm x 11.54mm thick steel case, which has a polished finish on the bezel, which gives it a stunning, elegant look. A second crown at 10 o’clock gives travelling owners of the Polaris Geographic the option of setting a second time according to the location. This is done by pulling the crown out and turning the crown until the desired city is shown at the bottom aperture ( 6 o’clock) on the dial is shown. At only 11.54mm thick, the case is well portioned to fit on the wrist well, while the finer details, such as the different finishes of the case, show off its sophistication.
Dial Finish
As mentioned earlier, this new Geographic dial is a much simpler take on the travel time complication. The dial retains the signature Polaris dial elements such as the elongated trapezoidal hour indices and Arabic numerals, skeletonised hands, and the black outer ring, which is usually used to display the complication that’s on offer for the timepiece.
The secondary time is displayed on the 6 o’clock subdial, which has a matte grey-blue finish that makes it easily distinguishable on the dial. Exactly what you need when trying to read the time on the go. To the left of this sub-dial is a mini dial showcasing 24 hours, which also acts as a day and night indicator that easily tells the user whether its night time or day time in their chosen second timezone. As mentioned previously, right underneath the 6 o’clock subdial is an aperture that displays the name of the city relating to each of the 24 major time zones. Once the second time zone has been chosen via the secondary crown at 10 o’clock, the time on the 6 o’clock subdial will automatically change to reflect the chosen city.
Sitting underneath the skeletonised hour and minute hands is a power indicator, shown through orange colour (low power) and off-white (full power etc). This power reserve indicator sits on the inner circle of the dial, which has a darker finish that goes from light purple to black on the outer edge of the circle, making this indicator stand out quite well. However, my only gripe with this indicator is where it’s necessary or whether it could have been possibly reduced in size. Personally, it feels like there is too much going on in this part of the dial, and with the skeletonised hour and minute hands, when they cross over this indicator, it can get a bit messy.
The finishing of the dial is superb. As with most Polaris timepieces, the inner circle on the dial has a different finish from the rest of the dial. In this case, Jaeger-LeCoultre has gone the extra step to really make this finishing prominent and as aesthetic as possible. The brand states that “the lacquer dial features a new colour – ocean-grey. Evocative with an air of mystery, calling to mind the colour of the sea on a cloudy day, it is applied in a double gradient finish that adds visual depth and dynamism, and is coated with 35 layers of lacquer.”
Movement
The engine running the travel time complication in this latest Polaris geographic is the brand’s in-house Calibre 939 automatic movement. This calibre 939 movement would be a variation of the 939 movement used on the Master Control Geographic, with the removal of the date subdial. This goes to show how much trust in the 939 calibre movement JLC has, especially with its high performance of beating at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH) while giving out a power reserve of 70 hours. The movement has been designed, produced, finished and assembled in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. The finishing of the movement can be viewed through the open sapphire case back, which reveals a colourful display of jewels alongside the côtes de Genève finish on the main plate and skeletonised winding rotor.
Final Thoughts
This latest Polaris Geographic is a fine display where sophistication meets elegance. The timepiece showcases a variety of complications while still retaining a beautiful aesthetic look, both from the different finishes on the case and also on the dial.
This version of the Geographic timepiece by Jaeger-LeCoultre is a simpler take on the complication when compared to previous versions. While I think they could have done without the power-reserve indicator or made it smaller in size, this is a relatively small issue in what is otherwise a well-packaged timepiece. The movement backs the aesthetics as well, as it packs quite a punch with its high accuracy (frequency) and almost 3-day power reserve.
Jaeger-LeCoultre is offering the Polaris Geographic in two different strap options. Either a black rubber strap or a blue-grey canvas strap with an interchangeable folding buckle. This allows the wearer to change the style depending on the situation, location or function they are attending. With the elegant and luxurious look of this timepiece, it can make an ideal pairing for more formal attire, especially on the blue-grey canvas strap. However, switch to a black rubber strap, and the timepiece immediately changes gears to a more sportier version of itself, ultimately showcasing the versatility of this timepiece.
Reference: Q9078640
Specifications:
- Case: 42.0mm
- Case thickness: 11.54mm
- Case Material: Steel
- Dial: Gradient ocean-grey lacquer. Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, second time zone indicator at 6 o’clock and 24-hour indicator between 7 & 8 o’clock.
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance: 100m (10 Bar)
- Movement: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 939
- Power reserve: 70 hours
- Bracelet: Black rubber and blue-grey canvas with an interchangeable folding buckle.
