Five wasn’t enough to satisfy our craving for more watches! Thus, we’ve decided to round up five more releases that have gone under the radar at Watches and Wonders this year.
As you may already know from Part 1, Watches and Wonders 2024 has finally come to an end. We at WatchAdvice couldn’t be more upset – despite the hard work (and stress!) we poured into the celebrations, it was still a whole lot of fun! Of course, we’re only human and we can’t capture it all – but why let all the other amazing brands go unnoticed? Here are five more brands and releases that you may have missed from this year’s Watches and Wonders.
1 – Pequignet: Royale Tourbillon
Starting Part 2 is the French brand Pequignet. Though you may be unfamiliar with their work, they’ve garnered a reputation for both their design and mechanical chops, championing French watchmaking since 1973. Personally, the fact that they aren’t being talked about as much in the mainstream space is downright criminal, as the brand has been making in-house movements for years – something usually unheard of for a relatively unknown brand.
This year Pequignet seeks to up their horological notoriety, debuting at Watches and Wonders with the Royale Tourbillon, acting as their fourth in-house movement and their first ever to feature a flying tourbillon. The Cal. Royal Tourbillon is a natural and logical progression for the company, built atop the monstrous 88-hour power reserve of the original Cal. Royal movement. I’m surprised that they were able to integrate it into the original Cal. Royal, as integrating new complications into already established movements is notoriously tricky!
What’s even stranger is that they’re the second timepiece at Watches and Wonders 2024 to feature the ‘drop of water’ dial alongside Czapek! Pequignet’s dial texturing is similarly a thing of beauty, but it distinguishes itself from the Czapek by way of its 18k rose gold case.
Only 24 of these models are being made, so learn more about them here puquignet.com before they’re all gone!
2 – Chronoswiss: ReSec Green Monster
Chronoswiss is a brand that I’m fond of, not only for its watchmaking prowess but because of what it represents: Making the best of a bad situation. Chronoswiss was a brand born from crisis – the Quartz Crisis, to be accurate – by the late Gerd-Rüdiger Lang after he had been laid off by the then-collapsing Heuer in the 80s. The first Chronoswiss, built from spare Heuer parts he had been paid in place of actual money, surfaced in 1982. Not long after, Chronoswiss would mark their greatest achievement, introducing the first regulator-style wristwatch on the market.
Today, the regulator watch is synonymous with Chronoswiss, which is further celebrated with the Lucerne brand’s latest ReSec model, the Green Monster. Paying tribute to the ‘60s legends of Bonneville Speedway, this ReSec rendition has been coloured in flamboyant greens, purples, blues and oranges, colours typical of the turbocharged hot rods screaming across the salt flats of Bonneville, Utah.
Encased in 42mm of grade 5 titanium and limited to only 100 pieces, this outrageous yet gorgeous piece is also powered by Chronoswiss’ new manufacture Cal. C.6005, an automatic 55-hour power reserve movement featuring the ReSec’s signature retrograde seconds hand. While either the regulator style or the Green Monster look isn’t to everyone’s tastes, I still advise that you take a look at Chronoswiss yourself – despite its oddities, I’m certain you’ll find something you like!
Learn more about the ReSec Green Monster here!
3 – Beauregard: Ulysse
When I was assembling part 2 of this list, I suggested a few watches to Chamath and Matt, but I don’t think anything blew our socks off quite like this remarkable elegant piece from Beauregard.
While the Beauregard brand is relatively young, having been founded in 2014 by Alexandre Beauregard, they have made significant strides in horological and artistic expression, winning three GPHG awards for its elegant and delightful ladies’ watches. This year marks their tenth anniversary, which they chose to begin celebrating with their first-ever men’s watch at Watches and Wonders 2024.
Made in collaboration with living legend Vianney Halter, the Ulysse is everything that we already know and love about the design language and technical ethos of Beauregard. It’s powered by Halter’s famous mysterious automatic movement running at 3Hz (21,600bph) with 56 hours of power reserve. Of course, the mystery part is how the watch is an automatic movement, freeing the view of the movement that a standard rotor or micro-rotor often obstructs. The answer, however, is surprisingly simple: A peripheral rotor, hidden in the screw-down case back of the Ulysse.
Finally, the Ulysse comes in a 41mm 18k rose gold case and a dial made from 68 hand-polished Aquamarine crystals, inlaid delicately and laced with gold. It’s yet another hallmark of the Beauregard lineup and demonstrates yet again what happens when the highest form of jewellery combines with one of the highest forms of horological mastery.
Learn more about the Beauregard Ulysse here!
4 – Hautlence: Retrovision ‘47
When it comes to avant-garde aesthetics, for those in the know of the watch industry nobody quite takes the cake as much as Hautlence does. If you’re not familiar, you probably should get familiar before you continue. There’s wild, there’s abstract, there’s avant-garde, and then there’s Hautlence. Honestly, I want to have a conversation with those guys about what exactly goes through their heads. From making spherical jumping hour complications to ball maze watches, there’s no convention that Hautlence hasn’t gone out of its way to shatter.
That’s why, at Watches and Wonders 2024, they’ve gone back to traditional values with the Retrovision ‘47. Except… in classic Hautlence fashion, they went too far back. Produced as part of a special booth at the event, the Retrovision ‘47 mimics the aesthetic of a marbled green and white Bakelite radio from the 1940s. More specifically, the General Television Bakelite Radio, model 5A5. Here’s a picture I found of the real thing on Pinterest.
In an ironically roundabout way, however, the Retrovision ‘47 is the most traditional timepiece that Hautlence has ever created. Underneath all the bells and whistles lies a time-only watch, complete with an offset dial as well as a flying tourbillon hidden inside the speaker grill. So for any Hautlence haters campaigning for more traditional timepieces out of them, I suppose you got your wish! Not in the way you imagined it though, huh?
Learn more about the Hautulence Retrovision ‘47 here!
5 – Eberhard & Co.: Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée
Speaking of traditional watchmaking, Hautlence isn’t the only brand going back to the grassroots. Eberhard & Co. have also done the same in their Watches and Wonders 2024 showing through the release of a new Limited Edition 1887 model.
Coming in a run of 250 references in either black or white, the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée celebrates Eberhard & Co.’s nearly 140 years’ worth of horological experience and excellence. Standing in a 41.5mm x 13.9mm stainless steel case, these timepieces exemplify the heritage-inspired aesthetic Eberhard & Co. have maintained throughout the years, sporting both a tachymeter and telemeter to accompany a brilliantly designed flyback chronograph movement.
The Cal. EB 280, built from AMT Manufacture’s 5100 movement, serves as the beating heart of the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée. Manually wound and featuring a flyback chronograph, the movement has also been further decorated with the Eberhard & Co. shield, finished with Geneva striping and emblazoned with an engraved blue ‘E.’ While heritage and vintage-inspired watches are becoming less and less my thing, I have to admit that the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée uses its dial space well, resulting in a practical chronograph design that doesn’t feel overly cluttered with complications.
Learn more about the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée here!
And that concludes the two part series in which we look at the watches you may have missed from Watches and Wonders 2024! If you missed Part one, where we look at the other five picks, click here!