Unveiled at this year’s Watches and Wonders, I have no words for this latest Rolex Deepsea reference.
Okay, that’s a lie. Obviously, I have words for it; otherwise, I wouldn’t be writing this article. But I would bet my bottom dollar that this wasn’t on your Rolex release bingo card.
The Submariner’s younger and chunkier brother has pervaded the brand’s lineup since 2008. The Deepsea collection was purpose-built to cater to the needs of extreme and professional divers, and those of us of the larger-wristed sort. For Watches and Wonders 2024, the Deepsea has been given an ostentatious makeover, releasing a new reference encased in 18kt gold and RLX titanium – a never-before-seen combination, says the brand.
Complete with a blue dial and Cerachrom bezel to match; most people would say that the Deepsea has simply been given the ‘Bluesy’ treatment, referring to the older Submariner Date 126613LB. The design and functionalities are similar – Rolex design laguage is rather universal, and both share a similar bracelet and clasp build, including the Glidelock micro adjustment system. However, a handful of differences set them apart from one another.
Rolex Deep Sea 136668LB – Automatic helium escape valve on left side of case 
Rolex Deep Sea 136668LB – Lume shot
First, the 2024 Deepsea’s case and bracelet is 18kt yellow gold, whereas the ‘Bluesy’ is a two-tone combo of yellow gold and Rolex’s signature Oystersteel. Second, the dial: ‘Bluesy’ has a sunray brushed finish, whilst the new Deepsea’s dial finish is more in line with the gloss of the Cerachom bezel. The third – and most obvious – difference is in the water resistance rating, where the ‘Bluesy’ is water resistant to 300m. The Rolex Deepsea, thanks to its patented Ringlock and Triplock systems, can tackle an eye-watering 3,900m of water without a single hitch. Although you and I both know that precious metal Rolexes, as valuable as they are, will not get anywhere near a single drop of water. Fear not if it does, though – it can handle it.
Rolex Deep Sea 136668LB – Case back 
Automatic Rolex 3235 movement
The Rolex Deepsea is powered by the automatic manufacturer Cal. 3235, which sports classic features like a 4Hz (28,800) beat rate and a 70-hour power reserve. For those unfamiliar with mechanical watches, know that Rolex movements are widely considered to be among the most accurate in the world. All Rolex watches have been Chronometer certified by the COSC. Rolex themselves enact an in-depth stress test of every watch to ensure Superlative Chronometer status, never deviating beyond +2/-2 seconds a day.
Final Thoughts
I remember when I first saw this release. I initially (and rather scathingly) remarked that the only people that would actually wear this watch were rich, self-obsessed moguls who “may or may not look like Dune’s Baron Harkonnen.”
However, despite being hilariously sized out of the Rolex Deepsea, I believe the full-gold reference has a place in the brand’s lineup. It’s not trying to hide behind any serious pretense or pretentious facade. It knows exactly what it is: A big, dumb and incredibly fun statement piece. That alone is worthy of my respect and attention, and the level of craftsmanship evident in Rolex consistently deserves both. I can’t wait to get my hands on one!
Reference: 136668LB
Specification
- Case: 44mm case diameter, 17.70mm thickness
- Case Material: 18kt yellow gold, blue Cerachrom bezel.
- Dial: Blue
- Crystal: Scratchproof Sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance: 3,900m (390bar)
- Movement: Automatic Rolex 3235 movement with COSC & Rolex Superlative Chronometer Certifications
- Movement Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
- Power reserve: 70 hours
- Bracelet: 18kt yellow gold Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock clasp and Guidelock micro adjustment
