The new Nautilus is making quite the fashion statement with its brand-new look.
Earlier this year, Patek Philippe surprised watch enthusiasts by removing the Nautilus 5980 range from their collection. This was a bold move indeed, as it was quite popular among collectors. Models like the fan favourite 5980/1R chronograph, two-tone 5980/1AR and rose gold variant 5980R were among the models to face the axe.
What seemed like the end of the 5980 collection has now been brought back to life with the latest unveiling at Watches & Wonders 2024. However, It’s not an introduction many would have expected. Patek Philippe is bringing 80s fashion back with a double denim look for its new Nautilus 5980/60G Flyback Chronograph model.
The 1970s and 80s saw a major rise in the fashion trend of wearing double denim. Back then, this iconic look was worn by celebrities such as Debbie Harry, Charlie’s Angels, and George Michael. Now, Patek Philippe has adopted this signature look for the brand-new Nautilus 5980/60G.
Patek Philippe – 5980_60G Nautilus – Case profile 
Patek Philippe – 5980_60G Nautilus – Case profile showing brushed and polished finishes
This latest interpretation of the iconic 5980 line comes with a 40.5mm case and, for the first time ever for the flyback chronograph model, a white gold case. High-quality finishing is paramount to Patek Philippe, and this is evident through the mix of finishes, such as the top of the bezel, case and lugs being brushed finish, while the sides are given a beautiful mirror-like polish finish.
Complementing this new white gold case, material is the signature Nautilus 5980 horizontally embossed opaline dial, now given a blue-grey colour scheme. The hour indices at 3 o’clock have been replaced with a date window with a white background date wheel. Even though the date wheel isn’t colour-matched to the dial, it harmoniously completes the balanced aesthetic of the dial, with the other applied baton hour markers having white Superlumi-Nova.
At the 6 o’clock position, we get the flyback chronograph feature. This feature, termed monocounter, combines the traditional counters found on standard chronograph timepieces into one counter. The monocounter is split into three segments through concentric circles. Each circle refers to a different reading. The outer circle, denoted by the Arabic numerals, are the indications for the 60-minute counter. The small circle in the centre, with its own small hand, measures time in a 24-hour format. The chronograph hand can also be used as a constant seconds hand. The monocounter also comes with a detailed sailing finish, which contrasts nicely against the horizontal embossing of the dial.
Powering the flyback chronograph and this latest Nautilus 5980/60G is Patek Philippe’s self-winding mechanical movement Calibre CH 28-520 C/522. The movement comprises 327 parts, including the Spiromax® balance spring, and is 30mm in diameter. In 2024, Patek Philippe announced stricter criteria for the development of the movements, especially for movements with an in-house seal and more than 20mm wide. The Nautilus 5980’s open case back shows the Calibre CH 28-520 C/522 movement, which features the 21k gold winding rotor with Patek’s Calatrava cross logo.
To enforce and sustainably safeguard compliance with the rules at every level, Patek Philippe created its own quality seal that applies to all of its mechanical timepieces regardless of their complexity.For movements, the Patek Philippe Seal specifies an extreme rate accuracy with a tolerance of no more than -1/+2 seconds per day. It imposes very strict requirements on the manual finissage of movement parts in keeping with the grand Genevan traditions. And it affirms the quality of the materials used, the perfection of the precious stones as well as the work of the gemsetters.
PATEK PHILIPPE ON THE IN-HOUSE SEAL.
The new Nautilus 5980/60G completes the double denim look with calfskin leather mixed with a hand-stitched blue-grey denim pattern. This “denim strap” comes with white stitching, which actually stands out quite nicely against the denim pattern. As a secondary option, Patek also provides a blue-grey coloured fabric pattern strap made from composite material.
Final Thoughts
This look for the Nautilus 5980/60G is one that will have the talking, no doubt. The double denim look is a trendy fashion statement, but is it a timepiece that will last for the ages? No doubt that there will certainly be more than enough buyers for this timepiece. The blue-grey dial combined with the new white-gold case looks the part, a very modern interpretation of a Patek Phillipe icon.
Reference: 5980/60G Nautilus
Specification
- Case: 40.5 mm. Thickness: 12.2 mm.
- Case Material: White gold with brushed and polish finishes
- Dial: Opaline blue-gray, horizontally embossed, white gold applied hour markers with white luminescent coating.
- Crystal: Sapphire scratch-resistant, with anti-reflective coating.
- Water resistance: 30m (3 Bar)
- Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement. Caliber CH 28‑520 C/522.
- Movement Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
- Power reserve: Approx. 55 hours
- Bracelet: Calfskin, hand-stitched, denim pattern, blue-gray (originally fitted). Composite material, fabric pattern, blue-gray (additional strap). Nautilus fold-over clasp in white gold.
