Oris’ flagship direction gets a major facelift this year, introducing small design changes that make all the difference.
Coming off one of the wackiest watch releases of last year with the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, Oris is no stranger to doing exactly as their slogan says and ‘going their own way’. That’s the way it’s always been for them, and if Oris’ MO is to be believed, then it’s the way it will always be. However, beyond the glitz and glamour of new timepieces, Oris recognises the need for innovation and change. This year, they’ve done just that – dialling back the madness to focus on refining one of their most popular collections.
Despite Oris’ nearly 120-year history (Fun Fact – Oris and I share the same birthday!), the Aquis is a fairly new addition to the Bear’s family, having debuted in 2011 as their premiere dive and sports watch. It was welcomed by the watch community with open arms, garnering popularity for its unique design and remarkable specifications. It brought 300m water resistance and a reliable Swiss calibre to a reasonable price point. It was also updated in 2020 to house the remarkable Cal. 400 movement – but more on that later. Some Aquis models even had nicknames, with the 43.5mm model lovingly nicknamed the ‘Shrek,’ and its 36.5mm counterpart referred to as the ‘Yoda.’
(Hands On) Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 – Upcycle dial steel bracelet on the wrist 
(Hands On) Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 – Upcycle dial steel bracelet
For Watches and Wonders 2024, Oris has made several small but cumulative changes to completely and positively transform the overall aesthetics and wearing experience. First is the slight extension of the case to meet the lugs – almost unnoticeable, but refining the watch’s look with additional facets. The bracelet and crown guards have also been tapered aggressively, for a sleeker wearing experience yet preserving the original Aquis’ boldness. All these changes working in conjunction enhance the wearability immensely – I always felt that the original Aquis always wore a little funny, so I can’t wait to give these new ones a spin.
(Hands On) Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 – Blue Dial Steel bracelet and Upcycle Steel bracelet 
(Hands On) Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 – Blue Dial Steel bracelet
For all these changes, however, one major addition stands head and shoulders above the rest: The new clasp, which for these Cal. 400, 43.5mm references include an all-new quick-adjust clasp! This is probably the most welcome addition to the collection by far, cementing it firmly as a new contender in the diver-style sports watch category.
Not content with stopping there, Oris has also changed the dial features. The Hölstein brand’s designers have refined the shape and profile of the indexes and Alpha hands, now mirroring one another and permitting rapid referral, the practicality of which is paramount for a diver’s watch like the Aquis.
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 – Blue dial on blue rubber strap 
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 – Green dial on green rubber strap
The ‘Aquis’ font has also been changed on the dial, as well as the glorious addition of a colour-matching date wheel! This is such a nice subtle change on the new Aquis models, as the previous date windows always drove me a little crazy. I am a bit puzzled as to why they decided not to include the black dial in the new releases, though. Green, blue and the odd-but-fun Upcycle dial are the three choices that we’ve got at the moment, but I’m sure that there are going to be more dial options further down the road.
As for the movement, that has largely stayed the same, but can you blame them? The Calibre 400 is a phenomenal in-house automatic movement, boasting the luxurious 4Hz (28,800bph) and a whopping 120-hour power reserve, which is the equivalent of exactly five days. Oris also cites that it’s anti-magnetic and COSC chronometer-certified, so statistically and for the price point a timepiece like this is a no-brainer. Whilst designs are subjective to the wearer, I believe that spec-for-spec the Cal. 400 gives other watch brand’s movements a run for their money. In after-sales, however, they are practically unrivalled with an unbelievable 10-year warranty.
Final Thoughts
Other than the fact that Oris and I share a birthday, I’ve always held the independent brand in high regard. Their attention to detail and craftsmanship is only rivalled perhaps by their nobility and charity – lofty goals, yes, but admirable for a watch brand to acknowledge and address. The next generation of Aquis shows a lot of promise for Oris’ 2024, and I for one am excited to see what they have to offer beyond the Watches and Wonders festivities this year! It is their 120th anniversary in June, after all – who knows, maybe I’ll get swept up in the celebrations too…
References: 400 7790 4157- 07 8 23 02PEB (Green)/400 7790 4135- 07 8 23 02PEB (Blue)/400 7790 4150- 07 8 23 02PEB (Upcycle)
Specification
- Size: 43.5mm case diameter
- Case: Stainless Steel
- Dial: Green, Blue or Recycled PET plastic
- Crystal: Anti-glare Sapphire, front and case back
- Water resistance: 300m (30 BAR)
- Movement: In-house automatic Cal. 400 movement
- Movement Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
- Power reserve: 120 (5 Days)
- Strap: Quick-change, quick-adjust stainless steel bracelet (All), green/blue rubber strap (Green/Blue), stainless steel folding clasp (All)
