Despite its vintage minimalist inspirations, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony represents a modern era of elegant horology. This year, VC looks to celebrate the collection’s legacy with three new models.
Even though the Patrimony collection is already held in high regard as one of the premier dress watches of the Richemont brand, Vacheron Constantin has released three new references to give us a taste of what’s next for the iconic collection. Adding a new dial colour, a new strap colour and a smaller diameter pave the way for a revamped Patrimony experience.
Although the design is minimalist, the Patrimony has been a staple of Vacheron’s for decades, despite only launching in 2004. Unfazed by the passing of trends, the original remained stalwart in its design language, encapsulating that era’s spirit of creativity, marked by the sleek and architecturally pure. Today, the Patrimony predominantly takes inspiration from 1957’s Reference 6179. Its round case, slender bezel, and convex dial details reflect watchmaking classicism at its finest, unchanged yet exemplified in Vacheron’s modern references.
And classic it is – For Watches and Wonders 2024, Vacheron Constantin has leaned further into what made the collection such an icon of dress watch design. Its craftsmen have kept the minimalist formula, but in a way that has left subtle room for modern development and innovation.
This is easier said than done, of course – Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin, said the following about the development of the Patrimony:
“Since its launch in 2004, we have opted to develop it in a very subtle way… Aesthetic evolution also involves discreet adjustments in terms of diameter, for example. This is what we are offering this year with a reduction in the diameter of the manual-winding Patrimony, a new dial colour, new strap colours and a place reserved for personalisation. One of the strengths of the Patrimony is that it is both timeless and firmly rooted in its era.”
Mr Selmoni’s sentiment echoes throughout the design of the new Patrimony references. The old silver-toned dial represents vintage classicism at its finest, and the pink-gold accents evident on both the stick hands and indexes only serve to further the timepiece’s elegant attitude. Something I like about the new Patrimony collection is how the minutes between each index are represented by small pink-gold dots, allowing for time-telling practicality while upholding the level of oozing elegance.
The new 39mm case diameter shrinks the Patrimony down to what I feel is an appropriate size for a dress watch, but the wrist presence isn’t lost. A signature of the collection, the new 39mm Patrimony references are decked out in either 18kt white or pink gold, with the 42mm Retrograde Moonphase reference coming in only white gold.
While Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony collection understands that minimalism is the order of the day, mechanical excellence is equally as important. The two 39mm references are powered by Vacheron’s signature Cal. 1440 manual wind movement, delicately assembled and thin, allowing for a 42-hour power reserve and a 4Hz/28,800 beat rate. While this beat rate is luxurious for standard watches, allowing for a cleaner sweep of the second hand, the Patrimonies don’t come with a second hand, making the hour and minute hand movements almost imperceptible.
However, the real star in the movement department is the 42mm reference, powered by the dual complication Cal. 2460 R31L automatic movement. The first of the two complications, a moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, is graduated precisely to the moon’s cycle, requiring but one correction every 122 years. The second, in my opinion, is more fascinating: The retrograde date display, as indicated by the blue arrow hand. Of course, this displays the date, but uniquely and elegantly permits the blue arrow hand to jump straight back to the first of the month once its slow cycle is complete. Naturally, you’d have to be up at midnight on the last day to see it happen, or you can do it yourself.
Final Thoughts
I believe the dress watch is on the comeback. As much as it’s hard to wear them in humid environments (Queensland, for example), the elegance and attitude of a person wearing a dress watch is unmatched – for better or for worse. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony collection, rooted in vintage minimalism, is a testament to that attitude, remaining stalwart in today’s dynamic watch world.
With three new models, including an updated dial, strap colours, and a reduced diameter, VC celebrates the collection’s legacy while subtly innovating for the future. Vacheron’s commitment to tradition and progress is reflected through the Patrimony, ensuring the Patrimony remains a pinnacle of dress watch design for years to come.
Reference: IW501410U/000G-H017 (White Gold)/1410U/000R-H018 (Pink Gold)
Specification
- Case: 39mm case diameter, 7.7mm thickness
- Case Material: 18k white gold/18k pink gold
- Dial: Old Silver with pink gold accents
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides
- Water resistance: 30m (3 Bar)
- Movement: In-house manual wind Cal. 1440
- Movement Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
- Power reserve: 42 hours
- Bracelet: Olive green/Azure blue alligator leather with 18k white gold/18k pink gold strap
Australian Recommended Retail Price: Price on request.
Availability: Available now at Vacheron Constantin boutiques. For any enquiries, head to vacheron-constantin.com.au
Reference: 4010U/000G-H070
Specification
- Case: 42.5mm case diameter, 9.7mm thickness
- Case Material: 18k white gold
- Dial: Old Silver with pink gold accents
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides
- Water resistance: 30m (3 Bar)
- Movement: In-house automatic Cal. 2460 R31L with retrograde date & moon phase complications
- Movement Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
- Power reserve: 40 hours
- Bracelet: Olive green alligator leather with 18k white gold/18k pink gold strap