My wallet weeps once again as Tudor has introduced a Black Bay GMT in 39mm, dedicated to embodying the golden age of travel.
Tudor has had a rough go of it. Living in the shadow of the Crown is a very difficult task, and in the past, snobs have rudely and unfairly referred to the Shield as the “Poor Man’s Rolex.” This could not be further from the truth. Why? Three words: Tudor Black Bay.
Whilst Tudor’s nearly century-long history is indelibly intertwined with Rolex’s, the Black Bay lineup of watches, alongside contemporary offerings like the Pelagos and 1926, stands alongside Rolex rather than underneath it. Since 2020, Tudor has stepped up to the impossible task, with releases like the Black Bay 58 further defining themselves beyond their sister brand.
Last year marked one of the best for Tudor yet, with drops such as the Heritage 41 Burgundy (click here to read article!) and the Opaline Dial GMT (click here to read article!) proving exactly what they were capable of on their own. This year, they stepped into the light once again at Watches and Wonders 2024, with the release of the Black Bay GMT in 39mm.
We here at WatchAdvice have owned some of the Black Bay GMT collection. Just kidding – we’ve owned them all. Matt has owned the classic black dial Pepsi-style GMT (click here to read Matt’s owner perspective of the Black Bay GMT), and last year, I took the Pepsi plunge, acquiring the Opaline dial GMT for my birthday (click here to read Mario’s owners perspective of the Black Bay GMT Opaline). Thus, for us to be excited over this new piece would be a bit of an understatement. 39mm may be a little bit small for some wrists, but for guys like me (and some girls!), it fits just right. 39mm is the Goldilocks spot for a lot of brands, so to see Tudor bringing one of their complications down to size is a sign of the times, and a breath of fresh air for us who don’t like wearing tanks on their wrists – well, not all the time, at least.
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT – Steel bracelet 
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT – Rubber Strap
While I do acknowledge Tudor’s separate identity from Rolex, we both know that this new colourway is eerily similar to the colours of the Rolex GMT Master II ‘Coke,’ which was slated to make a comeback this year. While rumours have little effect on the end products we see – I remember seeing a ‘leak’ of a purple bezel Submariner which looked downright awful – The 39mm GMT’s black and red aluminium insert can only make you wonder exactly what else could be in store further down the road.
Either way, Tudor still finds ways to keep their piece unique, with gilt accents paying tribute to the jet-setting era and the complication of the timepiece, as well as their ‘snowflake’ hands, a signature of the collection since 1968. All this sits atop a matte black dial, with gilded and lumed hour markers except on the white date window cutout. I would have loved the date window colour to match the gilt accents a la the Black Bay Pro, but it still provides a small bit of contrast that keeps the design practical and readable.
Powering the new 39mm GMT is an all-new manufacture movement from Tudor, the MT5450-U. Unlike the MT5652 evident in the 41mm Black Bay GMT lineup, the MT5450-U is based on the architecture of the MT5400, a staple of the 39mm Black Bay and Pelagos collections and was most recently seen inside the Black Bay 54. Now outfitted with the traveller’s (True) GMT complication, this new offering from Tudor boats the same luxurious beat rate of 4Hz (28,800bph) alongside a 65-hour power reserve, which Tudor calls ‘weekend-proof.’
Not content with stopping there, however, Tudor has made the Black Bay GMT 39mm into a must-have in any aspiring watch enthusiast’s collection, re-engineering the MT5450-U and granting it both COSC and METAS chronometer certification. If you’re unfamiliar with it, METAS certification is even stricter than that of COSC, requiring all watches to run accurately within 5 seconds after full assembly. This grants the timepiece Master Chronometer certification, an award that, in years past, only went through the Swatch Group juggernaut Omega. With their newest expansion into METAS-certified movements, you’ve got to imagine that in terms of craftsmanship and design chops, Tudor is undoubtedly one of the frontrunners for its price point, presenting one of the best value-for-money offerings there is.
Final Thoughts
While Socrates once said, “The secret of happiness is not found in seeking more, but in developing the capacity to enjoy less,” I’m finding it almost heartbreaking that I didn’t hold off just one more year to grab this Tudor Black Bay GMT in 39mm. Don’t get me wrong: I love my 41mm Opaline dial! I can’t get enough of it! But I can’t help but think what life would be like with one of these bad boys on my wrist.
Surely the same, but a little bit different – I would get all the similar fixings as the Opaline dial, but in a versatile package, Master Chronometer certification, and not to mention the T-Fit clasp! This piece is a true standout from the other models at Tudor, and I fear that sooner rather than later, my wallet will be begging for mercy once more.
References: 7939G1A0NRU
Specification
- Case: 39mm case diameter, 12.8mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Dial: Black with gilded accents, black and red aluminium bezel
- Crystal: Domed sapphire with antireflective coating on both sides
- Water resistance: 200m / 20 Bar
- Movement: Automatic In-house MT5450-U movement with Traveller’s (True) GMT complication, COSC and METAS Master Chronometer certification
- Power reserve: 65 hrs
- Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with faux rivets/black rubber strap with Tudor T-Fit clasp.
