Building off last year’s successes, Panerai commemorates their close partnership with Luna Rossa. Shockingly, not only is this tourbillon reference highly ambitious, but it might also be practical.
Since stepping into the yacht racing scene in 2017, Panerai has experienced somewhat of a renaissance, drawing from and expanding its vast maritime experience. Sponsoring the America’s Cup with Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli in 2019 only served to solidify its seafaring ties, its brand values and Luna Rossa’s proving inseparable.
Each year, they’ve marked the occasion with commemorative releases. In 2023, they offered 37 unique references, but with a catch: they were available for purchase for only 24 hours. For Watches and Wonders 2024, Panerai and Luna Rossa celebrate their partnership yet again with this new Submersible Tourbillon GMT – PAM01405.
While the brand is innovative in its own right, Panerai isn’t exactly known for ‘breaking the internet.’ This isn’t a bad thing, per se – They stay in their lane, focusing mostly on the fundamentals of what led their brand into greatness, but rarely do they release something outlandish or incredibly avant-garde. Considering the size and iconic silhouette of their Luminors and Radiomirs, how daring do they want to get?
As it turns out, they want to very much. Despite the already bombastic nature of their lineup, Panerai’s new timepiece sure knows how to enter with a bang. In a departure from the Submersible’s signature aesthetic, PAM01405’s dial – or lack thereof – boldly displays the craftsmanship that is often hidden away in previous references from the Italian brand.
The in-house P.2015/T tourbillon, released last year, is unlike any other. For a skeleton dial, the details are as distinctive as they are clean, with the mainspring visible at the 6 o’clock mark and the tourbillon cage resting at around 10/11. Most watches have the tourbillon complication at the centre, but Panerai’s P.2015/T adds intrigue to both the design and the engineering, whilst helping to clear up space for the additional complications.
Panerai PAM01405 Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition 
Panerai PAM01405 Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition – Lume Shot
Yes, complications – In a similar vein as its older brother the P.2005/T, PAM01405 has a 9 o’clock small seconds, a fourth adjustable GMT hand (caller-style) and a 3 o’clock day/night indicator which tracks the GMT hand.
Unlike most GMT watches, the fourth hand on PAM01405 moves around the dial at a similar pace to the standard hour hand, so the day/night indicator is there to eliminate the need for any mental gymnastics. Further cleaning up the dial is the removal of the P.2005/T’s front-facing 4-day power reserve indicator, now positioned at the back of the watch. I know there’s someone out there who possibly laments this change, but having it on the back makes much more sense. If you’re still bitter, remember that you can see the mainspring from the front of the watch anyway.
For all the ostentatiousness of the PAM01405, what intrigues me the most is that the watch has still been built to the demanding Submersible standards. Despite being a celebratory/special occasions watch, I don’t doubt that it still accompanies you practically everywhere. The 45mm case is made from both DLC titanium and Panerai’s signature Carbotech, materials as strong as they are light. Dollops of lume are apparent on every hand and index, and despite the delicately put-together movement, PAM01405 still bears a 300m water resistance rating, thanks to Panerai’s skilled craftsman and its famous lever-action crown guard. It’s like putting a gorilla in a tuxedo – tough and ready for anything, but who says you can’t look good while doing it?
Final Thoughts
I’ve always been a fan of Panerai, and I aspire to one day become a Paneristi (Panerai fan and owner)! However, I’m not deaf to the reservations that some in the community still have for Panerai. I’ll admit, it has been a rocky road for them – sometimes, it even felt like Panerai hated Panerai. (Bring back the PAM00111/PAM00177 please!!!)
But for the last few years, Panerai’s gone from strength to strength in almost every single field, from craftsmanship and design to even branding and community. Everything has been changing for the better, and it’s incredibly well-designed watches like PAM01405 that help the community see that. A tourbillon from Panerai isn’t exactly earth-shattering news, but it’s not something they are particularly known for, yet they execute surprisingly well – and to a practical level, at that!
Panerai’s seen it all, and almost done it all, and I can’t wait to see what’s in store for them next, and perhaps catch one of these out in the wild! Although, it’ll be pretty difficult – they only made 20 pieces.
References: PAM01405 Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition
Specifications
- Case Material: Carbotech™ case with unidirectional titanium DLC bezel
- Dimensions 45mm diameter
- Dial: Skeleton with red & black accents
- Movement: In-house manual wind P.2015/T, caller-style GMT with tourbillon, power reserve/day & night indicators
- Beat Rate: 4Hz/28,800bph
- Power Reserve: 96h/4 days
- Water Resistance: 300m(30bar)
- Crystal: Sapphire, on front and case back
- Strap: Bi-material rubber and grey textile with Luna Rossa red stripe, titanium DLC buckle
