Baume & Mercier takes their iconic Riviera and turns it stealth with the new Acier-Titane: A black, gold and titanium model that is designed for Mediterranean nights!
Baume & Mercier have taken their famed Riviera and given it a stealth makeover just in time for Watches & Wonders 2024. According to the brand, the new Riviera Acier-Titane (steel and titanium in English) is a representation of “the mineral solidity of the region, built on a stone that imparts subtly nuanced hues even as the blue dial reflects the depth of the sea“. The addition of the gold ring on the inner case adds to the hues that can be found with the setting sun on the French Riviera – it’s a pretty compelling picture if you ask me.
The 42mm case sits are just 10.6mm thick, and like the 2023 Watches & Wonders released Riveria GMT Travel Time I reviewed late last year, hugs the wrist nicely with a flush to the wrist fit. The case itself is made from black PVD-coated steel, giving the Riviera a whole different look and feel when compared to the steel versions. The bezel is made from lightweight, but highly durable titanium, again, coated in a dark grey PVD and fixed to the case with four steel screws in sandblasted ADLC-coated steel. It’s part menacing, but also part sexy!
On the inner case, Baume & Mercier have broken up the dark with a gilt ring made of Gold PVD-coated steel which links the bezel with the baseband and adds a somewhat element of luxury to the case. Black and Gold in my opinion always works well.
Like its steel cousin, the new Riviera Acier-Titane showcases a semi-transparent sapphire dial, that echoes the blue water of the Côte d’ Azur surrounding the area as the night falls. You can see the small triangles on the dial under the smoked blue sapphire, which depending on your perspective, look like waves on the ocean, or the way the currents create peaks in the sand of the sea-bed. The date disc can be seen as well via the semi-transparent dial, and the cut-away window at 3 o’clock shows the black disc and white numerals clearly so there is no mistaking it.
The riveted gold-tone indexes and Roman numerals create a stark contrast to the dial, offsetting it nicely and making for ease of legibility when reading it during the day, and at night, these come alive with plenty of SuperLumonova in a blue hue. Again, another way Baume & Mercier tie the theme of this piece together.
Flipping the watch over, the new Baumatic BM13-1975A automatic calibre can be seen through the display caseback. This movement boasts a 5-day power reserve, or 120 hours if you prefer and Baume & Mercier has ensured that it stands up to everyday life with antimagnetic properties. The BM13-1975A beats away at 4Hz / 28,800 VpH and pivots on 21 jewels. Baume & Mercier have done the movement justice as well, decorating the bridges and plates in a combination of circular “pearlage” graining on the main bridge and spiral “Snailing” on the main plate. Adding to this, Côtes de Genève can be seen on the open-worked rotor.
Topping off the entire look of the watch is the dark blue rubber strap to match the dial. Equipped with Baume & Mercier’s fast change strap system, you can easily swap this for another Baume & Mercier strap or bracelet of choice. Having used this mechanism on the Riviera GMT Travel Time, I can say it’s very easy to use and makes swapping straps a breeze. Another addition to this piece is the comfort adjust system on the triple folding clasp – making for easy adjustments on the fly and adding comfort to those with wrists that can fluctuate depending on the weather.
Initial Thoughts on The Piece
I’ll say this – it’s one good-looking watch! Having had the GMT Travel Time for a couple of weeks, I’ve come to appreciate the Riviera line more. They are good-looking and comfortable sports watches, and whilst Baume & Mercier may not be a brand that initially turns heads, it deserves to get more credit than it does. The Acier-Titane is no exception to this, especially with the darker stealth look and evoking those Riviera nights.
The combination of the black case, dark grey titanium bezel, dark blue dial, and strap make for a piece that is sure to have some wrist presence and with this, compliments to ensue. The size will be a hit with most watch lovers, being that nice 42mm size and not being overly thick. Whilst some watch enthusiasts would like to see it smaller, the general person who is after a decently priced sports watch will find this a good-sized piece. Whilst the newer Baume & Mercier pieces are creeping up in price, you are still getting great value with what they offer. For circa AU $7k – $8k, 120 power reserve, sapphire dial and quick change strap with comfort extension, you really can’t go wrong.
Reference: M0A10769
Specification
- Size: 42mm, 10.6mm thick
- Case: Black PVD-coated steel with Titanium bezel treated in a dark grey PVD
- Dial: Smoked blue sapphire dial with transparent wave decor
- Hands/Indices: Riveted and gilded applied Roman numerals and indices with faceted gilded hands and date at 3 o’clock
- Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
- Water resistance: 100m (10BAR)
- Movement: Baumatic BM13-1975A Automatic calibre, beating at 4Hz / 28,800 VpH and pivoting on 21 jewels
- Power reserve: 120 hours (5-days)
- Strap: Integrated blue rubber strap with quick change mechanism. Triple folding PVD-coated steel clasp with comfort adjustment
