Though the legacy of the Biver brand is only just beginning, the reputation of the name can be heard loud and clear through their latest collaboration with Bucherer.
The venerable businessman, collector and enthusiast Jean-Claude Biver, accompanied by his son Pierre, set out early last year to create timepieces. Their pursuit of unparalleled excellence in this field was not to be hindered by any pressures or constraints.
Looking upon the Carillon Tourbillon with micro-rotor and minute repeater, it’s safe to say that they succeeded in this endeavour. This time, they have opted to design a piece unique for the equally reputable Bucherer brand, sparing no expense to produce their latest work of art. Meticulously crafted from white gold, this standout watch is further accompanied by an intricate arrangement of stunning sapphires in various hues.
Paying tribute to gem-setting, an art as beautiful as it is delicate, is no easy feat for even the most excellent craftsmen. For Biver, however, their heartfelt letter to the practice is made manifest with ease, transcending traditional gem-setting methods through the careful use of 30.52 carats’ worth of concave gems throughout the piece. As a result, the piece stands as a testament to not just the art itself, but the craftsman that worked tirelessly to contribute their expertise to this creation.
Of course, beauty is solely defined by the sum of its parts, so despite the timepiece displaying itself as a work of art, their philosophy dictates that every detail – regardless of how hidden, minute, or insignificant it may be – is all hand-finished, adhering to the highest standards of not just the brand but the watchmaking industry itself. In this, Biver’s determination is palpable, epitomising both the pinnacles of horological craftsmanship and artistic ingenuity both outside and in.
In the development of their inaugural timepiece, Biver knew that they didn’t want to just create a movement that attracted the eye of collectors or simply demonstrate their engineering prowess through challenging complexity. They wanted to go beyond exemplary – to stir human emotion, “Give birth to the soul of the watch,” and to allow the artistry and craftsmanship to resonate on a subtler, almost spiritual level.
This is why the brand opted to begin its journey through the most complex of means – a carillon-style minute repeater with three gongs and hammers, and an automatic tourbillon movement, powered by a platinum micro-rotor decorated with rose gold. The aforementioned painstaking level of hand-finishing is, remarkably, even more evident from the back of the watch than it is from the front. Circular graining is visible on both sides of the movement, whilst the bridges, constructed in yet another decadent layer of white gold, have been treated to a grained finish.
The tourbillon, of course, does not escape the elegant eye of Biver, so it too has been gifted a bridge made from white gold. With this level of detail and love so apparent in every facet of this piece, it is of little surprise that this movement, the JCB.001A, has the technical specs to back up its artistry, providing 72 hours of power reserve on a 44-jewel movement, with the seal of Jean-Claude himself visible from the back – branding, to be sure, but also a definitive seal of approval for a piece positively brimming with quality and aesthetics.
Final Thoughts
Starting life as a watch brand with a Carillon-style minute repeater is not everyone’s idea of a successful first foray into the watch business, but Jean-Claude and Pierre are different. With their collective mastery over the industry, its history, and its technical expertise, such complexity is less of a challenge and more of a representation of the brand’s ethos: complexity is not just one aspect, but the very essence of their journey.
Drawing inspiration from tradition whilst learning to innovate in some of the most difficult areas of watchmaking is no easy feat but through the creative and technical freedom available to Biver and their incomparable team of craftsmen, this unique Carillon Tourbillon is a shining example to those who only look back to see exactly how far they have come. Despite being at the start of this new journey, Jean Claude and Pierre are both well-travelled down this road, and while the road ahead is still long, they have shown that neither has any intention to slow down.
Reference: PRF-10799
Specification
- Size: 43mm
- Case: Hand finished White gold with 294 gradients of blue sapphires totaling 26.27 carats
- Dial: Full sodalite center, white gold indexes, white gold base. 90 graded blue sapphires on the edge totaling 2.70 carats
- Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
- Caseback: Sapphire crystal and white gold
- Movement: Calibre JCB.001-A. Automatic, micro-rotor, white gold back & side bridges, white gold tourbillon bridge, hand-engraved white gold plate
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Water Resistance: 20m (2ATM)
- Strap: Blue stingray leather with white gold folding clasp, white gold pin and white gold buckle set with 10 blue sapphires totaling 1.55 carats