Nivada Grenchen has just released two models of the Depthmaster Orange. One is a limited edition vintage “N.O.S” (New Old Stock), and the other model is its modern-day counterpart.
Nivada Grenchen has a long history of watchmaking expertise, stretching back to 1926 when the brand was founded. Jacob Schneider founded the brand in Granges (which is known as Grenchen in Swiss-German). While they may not be as common a household name as other Swiss brands, Nivada Grenchen has played an integral part in the history of watchmaking, as they were among the pioneering companies that made the first automatic timepieces.
The Depthmaster is one of the brand’s iconic models due to its historical achievements. The Depthmaster was first created in 1965, and it marked a significant moment for diving watches, as it was the first timepiece to boast an impressive water resistance of 1,000 meters (3,300 feet). This was certainly a revolutionary feat, as during the mid-20th century, most other timepieces only carried a water depth rating of 100-200 meters.
The Depthmaster also stood out from the crowd thanks to its design. While the typical dive watches at the time featured round cases, rotating bezels and round luminous hour indices, the Depthmaster was different. It came with a unique 38mm cushion-shaped case, a thick knurled bezel with no insert and large luminous and unique hour markers. These hour markers became a signature design of Nivada Grenchen, making them instantly recognisable.
Now, two new editions of the Depthmaster have been released: a vintage-inspired version and its modern counterpart. These two timepieces were created from what Nivada Grenchen calls an exceptional discovery, with the CEO, Guillaume Laidet, coming across some hidden treasure and finding vintage Nivada Grenchen dials in pristine condition.
In terms of performance, the original Depthmaster boasted various mechanical features, making it the ideal diving watch. To achieve the depth rating of 1000m, the Depthmaster came equipped with a more robust, water-resistant winding crown, specialized internal protection mechanisms, additional threads in the case back, and a double-thick crystal.
“Recently, in a stroke of luck akin to unearthing hidden treasure, he came across a batch of 10 vintage Nivada Grenchen dials, astonishingly pristine and untouched. These glossy orange dials with distinctive Arabic numerals and tritium indexes, are not just highly sought-after by collectors – they’re also a testament to the enduring legacy of Nivada Grenchen’s craftsmanship. For connoisseurs and aficionados alike, this find is nothing short of extraordinary.“
Nivada Grenchen
Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition N.O.S (New Old Stock)
These 10 dials have been used to create the vintage models, with the 10 Depthmaster timepieces having a meticulously
sourced ETA 2472 movement. The case and hands, however, have been done in modern materials and created in 2023. The rest of the watch remains faithful and rooted in its heritage.
The stand-out orange dial has been inscribed with a “T SWISS MADE T” at the 6 o’clock hour marker, which is a reference to the use of Tritum, a luminescent material that was used to replace the banned Radhium in 1962. Tritium would offer a much more reliable and, more importantly, safer luminescent glow. It also confirms the dial’s vintage status and provides it as the key to authentication and dating it back to its original date.
While Tritium has a safe and bright luminescent glow, it also provides a contrasting aesthetic colour against the vivid orange coloured dial. Another notable feature that the vintage model brings to the table, compared to its modern counterpart, is the addition of the date window at the 3 o’clock position.
Depthmaster Orange Current Collection Modern Rendition
The modern rendition of the Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition N.O.S carries the same design characteristics, with some subtle changes. The most notable change for me lies in the hues of the orange colours. The modern take has a more vibrant orange, which provides a starker contrast against the dial elements, such as the hands, inscriptions and hour indices.
At the 6 o’clock position, we find the “L SWISS MADE L” inscription, which refers to the timepiece using modern-day Super-LumiNova. The way this inscription is done is more than to describe the luminescent used on the dial; it is also a way to refer back to its heritage design.
Other subtle changes in the dial compared to the vintage limited edition are the darker black coloured inscriptions, no date window and the large luminescent circle on the minute hand. To match the colours of the Tritium used in the vintage model for the luminescent, Nivada Grenchen has used cream-coloured Super-LumiNova.
The Depthmaster Orange Current Collection has the automatic movement calibre Soproud P024. This P024 calibre is based on the ETA 2824-2 movement, with the movement performing at a high frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH), making it highly accurate. What it can improve on, however, is the power reserve, which is only at 38 hours.
Final Thoughts
The Depthmaster is an important timepiece not only in Nivada Grenchen’s history, but in watchmaking history too. To be able to find 10 vintage dials of this model is an incredible find, one that, when it goes on sale, will surely not last long on the market. The vintage-inspired models come intact with the Tritium, the go-to luminescent material in the 1960s, while the modern additions have been an update to the case to make them more durable and reliable.
The modern counterpart carries the same design cues, however, now with the more vibrant orange-coloured dial. I personally like this vibrant orange, especially with the creme-coloured Super-LumiNova, which makes it stand out nicely. What I feel can be improved is the power-reserve on the Soproud P024 movement. By modern standards, 38 hours is too low. The benefits of this timepiece far outweigh the downside, however, as you get a modern rendition of a vintage timepiece that has so much history behind it at a very good price point.
Reference: 14127A
Specification
- Case: 39mm
- Case Material: 316 Stainless Steel
- Dial: Limited edition – glossy orange, original tritium indices, “T SWISS MADE T’ inscription, date window at 3 o’clock. Current Collection- Glossy orange, markers highlighted with cream-coloured Super-LumiNova® crème, ‘ L SWISS MADE L” inscription.
- Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance: 1000m (100 Bar)
- Movement: Limited Edition N.O.S –New Old Stock ETA 2472, Current Collection – SOPROD P024.
- Movement Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
- Power reserve: 38 hours
- Bracelet: Choice of Straps available