Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton

by Chamath Gamage

Vacheron Constantin takes pride in making ultra-thin timepieces. For the brand, ultra-thin timepieces are seen as the ultimate challenge in watchmaking. Trying to incorporate the different features of the movement while still trying to keep the watch as thin as possible is certainly no easy feat and one that only a few watchmakers have mastered. Vacheron Constantin sees that in today’s modern world, the extreme thinness of a watch is the symbol of style and elegance. 

Vacheron Constantin has vast experience in creating thin timepieces. Their knowledge and history of thin timepieces go back to as early as the 1930s, when the brand started creating ultra-thin pocket watches. Then during the 1950s, Vacheron Constantin released timepieces that during this generation were thought of as the thinnest watches in the market. In more modern times, the brand’s Overseas collection stood out in 2016 for its ultra-thin Overseas perpetual calendar timepiece. 

Now for Watches & Wonders 2022, Vacheron Constantin is reimagining the Overseas Perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton with a new dial colour for the pink gold case. Vacheron Constantin has given this latest Overseas Perpetual Calendar ultra-thin a stunning blue dial colour. This is however not the first time the blue has been used on the Overseas Perpetual Calendar ultra-thin. On the white gold version of this timepiece, the same blue has been used to beautiful effect. A white dial 18K 5N pink gold version of this model exists as well. Upon Overseas Perpetual Calendar ultra-thin’s release, it won the Calendar and Astronomy Watch prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2020.

Design:

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton blue dial comes in the 41.5mm 18K 5N pink gold case which has a water resistance of 50m. The bracelet is also done in matching 18K 5N pink gold, with the Maltese cross used as the inspiration for the design on the bracelet links. 

While the case and bracelet design are impressive, the dial is where all the attention belongs too. As per previous iterations of this model, the dial is fully skeletonised while only showing the necessary parts of the sub-counters, as they have been skeletonised as well. Where this model differs from the previous pink gold version is the use of blue on any visible dial surface. The minute track and perpetual calendar counters have used blue as the background. The moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock also has blue for the night sky, which matches beautifully with the rest of the counters. The blue against the 18K 5N pink gold works well and provides great contrast for the sub-counter inscriptions. 

The process of skeletonising a watch is no easy work. Vacheron Constantin states this as well by saying “skeletonisation is extremely complex to perform and is indeed a specialised field taught in watchmaking schools. The task consists in open working a mechanical movement by hollowing out its components without compromising their reliability. This quest for transparency coupled with a high-flying precision exercise is mastered by only a few watchmakers”. 

All the parts of the movement in this timepiece have been hollowed out, finished, and decorated to the finest detail. The attention to detail by Vacheron Constantin and their artisans goes above and beyond as not only do they perfect the parts visible from the eye, but those that also remain hidden from sight. 

Movement:

The engine behind this Overseas Perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton blue dial is the Calibre 1120 QPsQ/1 movement. This movement with the perpetual calendar movement is extremely thin, measuring in at only 4.05mm! The movement has had its entire components finished by hand, to have chamfered edges, satin-brushed finishes, circular-brushed finishes, and sunburst or circular-grained decoration depending on the location of the component in relation to the heart of the calibre.

On the case back the same attention to detail and hand-finished work can be seen. The main attraction is the open-worked oscillating weight which is made from 22K gold and shaped like the Maltese cross. The movement operates at a frequency of 2.75Hz (19,800 VpH) and gives out a steady power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 

A watch that is a fan favourite and celebrated for its impressive ultra-thin skeletonised design, the Overseas Perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton in 18k 5N pink gold finally gets its blue dial variant. The timepiece comes as standard in the 18k 5N pink gold bracelet, however, if one wishes to change the appearance, an additional calfskin leather strap and rubber strap, each with an 18k 5N pink gold pin buckle is given. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton pink gold blue dial is only exclusively available from the brand’s boutiques. 

Reference: 4300V/120R-B642

Specification:

  • Case: 41.5 mm diameter, 8.1 mm thick
  • Case Material: 18K 5N pink gold
  • Dial: Sapphire, 18K 5N pink gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova®
  • Crystal: Sapphire Crystal, anti-reflective coating inside
  • Water resistance: 50 meters
  • Movement: 1120 QPSQ/1 – Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
  • Power reserve: 40 Hours
  • Strap: 18K 5N pink gold bracelet (half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links), secured by an 18K 5N pink gold triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system. Blue calf leather strap with white stitches. Blue rubber. Each additional strap comes with an 18K 5N pink gold buckle

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $211,000.00 AUD

Availability: Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques

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