The Aquaracer, to the self-proclaimed watch collector, might not mean much. It probably won’t even register anywhere on the radar. But it is a very important range in the Tag Heuer lineup and one they cannot afford to stuff up. so to speak. It is one of the defining collections of the brand since its 2000 series days and one that could very well be the first luxury watch purchase for many Australians.
Because. A Tag, for decades, has been a rite of passage for many Australians. It is often a graduation gift, a self-congratulatory present for a new job, perhaps even a wedding day watch. It has been a part of many milestone life moments and it is with this background, the reputation and the associated pressure to perform that the new Aquaracer range was launched into. Not saying that it’s not important to the rest of the world, mind you. Not at all. But it gives you, dear reader, a bit of an insight into the importance of the brand down under. And whilst many “collectors” might be all too willing to dismiss the brand, I’m sure if pressed, they may admit to having started their watch journey off the back of a Tag.
You could even say it’s the gateway drug into the abyss of becoming a watch enthusiast and that, ladies and gentlemen, and others are one of the vital roles that Tag Heuer plays.
Anyway, enough waffle (as my high school English teacher would say) and get to the point. The point is that the new Aquaracer Professional 200 is quite possibly the most resolved, elegant, and refined version yet. It builds on the solid foundation of the 2021 “300” overhaul and tweaked for the better. I know you’re going to ask why. And I’ll tell you. But first as usual the caveat is that watches are highly subjective and these are my opinions only. YMMV.
However, first things first. Did you know that Tag Heuer has a “six features” design philosophy? Obviously, they won’t apply to the Connected, but they are as follows:
• Water-resistant to 200m or more
• Screw-down crown
• Double folding clasp
• Unidirectional bezel
• Sapphire crystal
• Luminous markings
Now, to the point of why I think it is the best designed Aquaracer yet comes down to the overall cohesiveness of the design elements. Everything fits well and sits nicely. The proportions are fantastic and at 40mm it is immensely wearable. There is a marked shift away from big watches for the sake of being big. It retains a lot of the historical design cues for the 2000 series / preceding Aquaracers so that it remains recognisable as part of the family evolution.
The trapezoidal markers work in harmony with the re-shaped sword hands, and the date window is integrated subtly at 6 o’clock. I’m a fan of fume (smokey) dials as it elevates an otherwise simple dial. The bezel, in full brushed steel, offers a more premium look and retains the distinctive 12-sided shape that the range is known for. However, you do lose the minute markers from zero to ten. But given they’ll mostly be worn by desk divers, I much prefer the cleaner look.
The Calibre 5 movement is carried over (Sellita SW200-1) which more than does the job, and I’m very happy that Tag Heuer opted against a clear caseback and instead, a closed back with a brilliant relief of a compass. If you look carefully, the compass sits atop of a – that’s right – 12-sided base. How’s that for attention to detail and cohesive design?
The watch comes on a 3-link steel bracelet and a folding clasp with an adjustable extension. Nothing fancy, just something solid and dependable. Does the job without drawing attention.
The price may have crept up over the years but that’s par for the course, and not exclusive to the watch industry. However, have a quick look at the competition at this price point, and you might come to the conclusion that you could do a lot worse than one that is a well designed, solid performer with a rich history, and an innovator brand in the history of sports timing.
